Anastasia

The Monastery of Kykkos

Most monasteries in Cyprus are situated in superb mountain areas with breathtaking views. The Monastery of Kykkos founded in 1080 by Byzantine Emperor Alexios Komnenos is certainly the most famous of all the monasteries of the island and is known throughout the Greek Orthodox world. Located at about 1,200 metres above sea level, Kykkos took its name from the hillside on which it was built. It was granted autonomy by its founder who also donated one of the three surviving icons of Virgin Mary reputed to have been painted by Saint Luke himself.  Emperor Komnenos also handed over estates and property to assist in the financial upkeep of the monastery.

It is recorded that in the 14th century 400 monks lived within the monastery. In its 900 years of existence, it has burnt down four times - the last time was in 1813. The icon of Virgin Mary has survived to this day and is now completely covered with silver gilt plate. It is believed to have miraculous rainmaking powers.

This is the largest monastery in Cyprus and is also known as The Monastery of Archangel Michael to whom it is dedicated. It stands on the road leading from Nicosia to Troodos. The monastery dates back in origin to the late Byzantine period, but it was later rebuilt, first in the 17th century and then in the 18th. It contains the tomb of its founder, Archbishop Nikiforos. Inside there are many restored frescoes, and the icons are a fine example of the Byzantine style.

The most precious of these, that of Blessed Mary, is covered with a plate of gilded silver. Magnificent golden candelabra and lamps hang from the ceiling, and there are many religious relics to be seen. Ancient manuscripts, wooden sculptures and important historical documents relating to the history of the monastery are also kept there.

 

 

Thessaloniki – August 2015

Thessaloniki, also known as the "Bride of Thermaicos" is the capital city of Macedonia in Northern Greece and the major port city of the Thermaic Gulf in the Aegean Sea. Situated at about 520 km north of Athens, Thessaloniki is a bustling metropolis which bears the marks of its stormy history and is noted for its cosmopolitan character. Thessaloniki is also the host of the International Trade Fair and the International Film Festival held annually. What's more, the friendly, hospitable people have won my heart. On our holiday in Macedonia, Alkis and I spent three wonderful days in Thessaloniki. We stayed at our favourite hotel – Mediterranean Palace – a fine five-star hotel with reasonable prices, situated in the city centre.

The White Tower in Thessaloniki

 

DAY 1 – Monday, August 10

Thanassis, my brother-in-law, drove us to Thessaloniki from Serres. I was a bit disappointed because he didn't have lunch with us as he had to go back to Asprovalta where his family were spending their summer vacation.

Having checked in at Mediterranean Palace Hotel in the city centre, Alkis and I decided to have lunch at one of the many restaurants at "Ladadika". Well, it wasn't the best option but that was very near our hotel. In the afternoon, we had coffee at Aristotelous Square and then I shopped till I dropped! Poor Alkis! He was exhausted at the end of our shopping spree.

When we got back to the hotel, I realised to my horror that it was 7:30 pm. At 8:00 pm, we had arranged to meet Alkis' cousin Antonis and his wife Irini, at the bar of the hotel for an aperitif before going out for dinner. Alkis had a quick shower and was ready by 8 o'clock. He was such a darling! He didn't shout at me. He only said: "I'll be at the bar with Antonis and Irini. Please, don't be late." I was 20 minutes late! I apologised, of course, but Antonis and Irini gave me such a warm welcome and made me feel comfortable. We had a great night out in Thessaloniki!

DAY 2 – Tuesday, August 11

In Thessaloniki, we met Alkis's cousin Antonis and his wife Irini and we all set off to Veria and Edessa. First stop: Panagia Soumela on the outskirts of Veria.

The monastery of Virgin Mary Soumela

 

The monastery of Panagia Soumela (Virgin Mary Soumela) is very close to the village of Kastania, near Veria. It was built in 1951 by refugees from Pontos region that were trying to revive the monastery of Panagia Soumela, which was built on the mountain Mela near Trapezounta. In the monastery of Trapezounta was the miraculous painting of Virgin Mary Soumela. According to tradition, it was painted by Evangelist Luke himself. From the monastery, it was transferred to the Byzantine Museum, but when the monastery in Veria was built, it was transferred there. Since then, thousands of people have been travelling to the monastery to see the painting. In the monastery, you can also see a variety of ecclesiastical and historic relics and artefacts from the Greeks of Pontos region that were saved and brought to Greece. Special celebrations take place every year on the 15th of August, the day of the Assumption of Virgin Mary.

The Holy Icon of Virgin Mary Soumela

 

The monastery of Virgin Mary Soumela

 

The splendid view from the monastery

 

Kastania - Veria

 

We had coffee there and then drove on to Edessa - the capital of Pella in Central Macedonia, Edessa is renowned for its waterfalls. We stopped for lunch at Edessa Waterfalls.

The town of Edessa

 

Edessa

 

Lunch time - with Antonis and Irini

 

Traditional Greek Salad

 

Edessa Waterfalls

 

DAY 3 – Wednesday, August 12

Antonis and Irini picked us up soon after breakfast and set off for the Blue Lagoon Princess Hotel at Kalyves, Halkidiki – one hour drive from Thessaloniki. This is where we met our good, old friend Andreas Christodoulides, who is the manager of this amazing hotel resort. Both Alkis and I were so glad to meet Andreas after such a long time!

Kalyves Beach - Halkidiki

DAY 4 – Thursday, August 13

Thank God, I followed Alkis' advice and packed soon after our trip to Halkidiki. The two of us had a late night out in Thessaloniki, which left me reluctant to get up on Thursday morning. Finally, I managed to wake up at 8:00 am and after a hearty breakfast, Aegean Airlines safely flew us back home.

This was yet another fantastic holiday in Greece.

Serres, Greece – August 2015

Whenever I come back from a holiday in Greece, I am convinced that there is not one single part of this fantastic country that is not filled with unspeakable beauty. Greece is endowed with thousands of golden beaches, snow-capped mountains, caves and gorges, lakes reflecting in their waters all the splendour of the Greek landscape; not to mention 6000 islands which are scattered gems in the Aegean and Ionian Seas. Macedonia, however, is by far a place of outstanding natural beauty. It's also my husband's homeland – this is why it has a very special place in my heart.

Ai Yiannis-Serres

 

Serres-Town Centre

 

Serres-Town Centre

 

 

Macedonia is a Greek region situated in northern Greece, gifted with endless greenery, fertile plains, roaring waterfalls, imposing mountains, and some of the country's most stunning beaches in the area of Halkidiki. I'll never have enough of Macedonia, however often I visit this blessed land.

DAY 1 – FRIDAY, 7 AUGUST

We flew Aegean Airlines, which safely landed us at Macedonia Airport in Thessaloniki – the capital city of Macedonia. Thanassis, my brother-in-law, was there, waiting for us, and drove us to Serres – my husband's hometown. The journey by car takes about an hour, so by 1:00 pm we had already checked in at Elpida Hotel. We loved our room – a junior suite in two levels overlooking the pool. Soon afterwards, we had lunch followed by a short siesta at the hotel. In the evening, we had dinner at "Kataraktis" Restaurant in the area of Ai Yiannis. I was delighted to meet again my sister-in-law Evangelia as well as Yianoula – Evangelia's sister and her husband Babis. We had a fabulous evening and a great dinner. Unfortunately, I was so impressed by the landscape and the food that I completely forgot to take photos of all six of us!

Ai Yiannis Waterfalls

Katarraktis Restaurant - Ai Yiannis

Ai Yiannis

DAY 2 – SATURDAY, 8 AUGUST

We spent the whole day with our niece Zoe and her two adorable little girls. We met in the town centre and had "bougatsa" at one of the many cafés. "Bougatsa" is a kind of Greek pastry consisting of either semolina custard or cheese between layers of phyllo. Serres is renowned for its "bougatsa" throughout Greece. Serres is a modern, bustling town of more than 80,000 inhabitants – the second largest town in Macedonia after the capital city Thessaloniki.

Bougatsa

In the evening, we had a great night out at Koulas, which lasted till the early morning hours. The ancient and Byzantine acropolis of Koulas lies on an evergreen hill north of the town of Serres. It was named "Bes Koules" by the Turks during the Turkish occupation of the town (1383 – 1846). Hence the name Koulas.

DAY 3 – SUNDAY, 9 AUGUST

With 2,539 inhabitants, the village of Neo Souli lies at an altitude of 160 metres, at about 7km east of the town of Serres. It is a lovely, picturesque village which belongs to what the people of Serres call "dardanochoria." Neo Souli also boasts its local taverns, with tables on the street. Needless to say that the food was delicious! I wish we could stay longer in Serres. It's a magical town.

Neo Souli

Naxos, Greece – July 2015 – Part 3

Day 5 – Friday, 17 July

On a summer holiday, I'd rather not spend time wandering around sites and monuments or travelling by car to discover hidden villages. I'm glad Alkis shares my love for the sea and enjoys as much as I do spending time on the beach and finding romantic bars or tavernas in the evening while contemplating yet another sunset. While sipping our wine at Bossa Café, we were watching with an unwavering gaze the sun sinking slowly beneath the horizon. Tiny threads of light painted the sky with the dexterity of a skilful artist: first a fiery orange, then red and finally a velvety dark blue that melted away into the chalky mauve of the Aegean Sea. And then darkness settled leisurely on the island of Naxos. I think Mother Nature is the greatest artist in the world.

Day 6 – Saturday, 18 July

Time flies. This is, perhaps, a cliché, but it was reality to us. The countdown had started: one day left before flying back home and before the end of what I call a dream Summer holiday. Soon after breakfast, we went to the beach and spent the whole day there. It was pure magic!

Day 7 – Sunday, 19 July

This was our last day on the island of Naxos. After the beach, we thought we deserved a special treat, so we had our last dinner in Naxos at Nissaki Restaurant. Alkis had what I had on our first day – grilled pork fillet, and I had grilled king prawns. There were eight in a portion. In Cyprus, you only get four or five. But I ate them all! Alkis' choice of the wine was excellent: Gerovasiliou – a great Greek red. Intense and ruby-garnet in colour, it overwhelms the palate with intense flavours.

Day 8 – Monday, 20 July

After enjoying our last huge breakfast at Glaros Boutique Hotel, we packed and then spent a couple of hours strolling in Naxos for the last time. At 12:30 pm, the taxi arrived and drove us to.... what they call an airport in Naxos! Oh, my! It was a very small house! Here is my conversation with Alkis before flying Olympic Air to Athens.

- Alkis, where are we?

- At the airport.

- But ... this is a small house, NOT an airport.

- And this is a small island called Naxos, remember? Small islands have got small airports.

I was scared to death! We checked in one hour prior to the departure of our flight and then we sat down waiting for the flight to Athens.

- Alkis, there is only one helicopter outside. Are we going to Athens by helicopter?

- No, we aren't, Alkis said while reading his newspaper. We're flying Olympic Air.

Olympic Air landed and I got into a panic!

- Alkis, I'm not going to fly THIS!

- My love, this is an aeroplane, and it will fly us to Athens.

- I'm not going to fly this...this....aeroplane. It's got ...propellers!

- So, what do you suggest?

- I suggest staying in Naxos for yet another night and take that wonderful Blue Star catamaran to Athens!

- Now it's too late. We're flying Olympic Air to Athens.

There were only 30 people on board. Some Americans, some Germans, some French and us. And we only had to go up four steps to board. And there was only ONE air hostess. During take-off, she happened to sit opposite us and she held my hand and said that air travel was the safest. And then she went on chatting and saying that she had two more Olympic Air flights to take – Paros and Milos! The tiny aeroplane with the propellers safely landed at Eleftherios Venizelos Airport in Athens. We only had time to have a quick bite – a delicious spinach pie – before the final call of Aegean Airlines to Larnaca. It was a huge Airbus A321 which landed us safely at Larnaca International Airport at 6:15 pm.

Back home, we had pizza delivered for dinner! We ate our pizza watching the news on TV and talking about our exciting holiday on the island of Naxos in Greece.

Naxos, Greece – Part 2

Day 2 – Tuesday, 14 July

We got up early in the morning and right after breakfast a taxi drove us to Rafina port where we caught the catamaran to Naxos at 7:30 am. However much I fear flying, I truly enjoy travelling by sea. We had a very pleasant trip to Naxos, which lasted about four hours. When we got off "Blue Star" at Naxos port, a taxi driver was waiting for us to take us to the hotel. Glaros Boutique Hotel was even lovelier than on their website. The hotel consists of 13 rooms overlooking Saint George Beach, which is only a few steps away. Alexis at the reception gave us a warm welcome, offered us cold orange juice and explained how to get around in Naxos.

 

Sailing to Naxos on board Blue Star

 

 

Naxos Port

 

 

Our hotel room

 

Then we were shown to our room which was small but functional and very nicely decorated. After having unpacked, we realised that we were starving. We had our first lunch in Naxos at a small restaurant opposite the hotel right on the beach. The food was delicious! We enjoyed a rocket salad with sun-dried tomatoes and parmesan cheese for starters, grilled pork fillet for me and ravioli for Alkis. After a short siesta, we spent the rest of the day on the beach. In the evening, we set off on foot to explore the town of Naxos, also called "Chora".

Alkis at Nissaki Restaurant

 

Nissaki Restaurant

 

Rocket Salad-Nissaki Restaurant

 

Grilled pork fillet-Nissaki Restaurant

 

While strolling about the narrow streets of the old town, we were only aware of the presence of the sea. Cul-de-sac often roofed over, and tiny balconies block the view of the sea. Its presence is roused by the salty tang and the brilliant light that is unique in the Cyclades.

Day 3 – Wednesday, 15 July

Lying virtually in the centre of the Cyclades, very close to Mykonos, Naxos is the largest island in the group, with a coastline of 148 km and a population of over 14,000 inhabitants. According to tradition, the island was named after Naxos, the leader of settlers from Caria in Asia Minor. Legend has it that the island was the home of Dionysos and Ariadne. Ariadne, the daughter of King Minos of Crete, helped Theseus, son of Aegeus, to kill the Minotaur.

Naxos

 

 

After a very good night's sleep and a hearty breakfast on the veranda overlooking the sea, we spent the whole day on the beach. The waves rolled in long and white fringed. The beach was such a shallow incline that even a child could wade out 300 hundred metres or more and still the water would be below their knees. Saint George Beach is very much like our own Mackenzie Beach in Larnaca. Walking along that beautiful sandy beach for over an hour, swimming in crystal-clear waters, reading, sunbathing or chatting away the hours were some of our favourite occupations.

Saint George Beach

 

Saint George Beach

 

No wonder we got up an appetite. We had lunch at Kavouri Restaurant where we tasted the traditional cheese of Naxos called "Arseniko" and their salad called "Naxiotiki". It consists of tomatoes, cucumber, green peppers, olives, capers, onions and "xinomyzithra" – a local white cheese. The salad was followed by fresh fried calamari and burgers both served with crispy French fries.

Traditional Naxos Salad

 

 

Arseniko - Traditional Naxos Cheese

 

Fresh Fried Calamari

 

Later in the evening, we enjoyed our aperitif at Bossa Café while contemplating a breathtaking sunset. Peace and contentment. The sun like a fiery orb looked like it was receding into the waters below. After dinner, we went for a long night walk along Saint George Beach and had a last drink at Vammos Bar while listening to murmuring waves.

The sunset in Naxos

 

Naxos by Night

 

Night Walk on the Beach

 

Night Walk on the Beach

 

Vammos Bar, Naxos

 

Vammos Bar, Naxos

 

Day 4 – Thursday, 16 July

When I travel, I love learning about the culture and history of the places I visit. So, just after swimming, I leisurely lay in the sun, took my iPad and read about the history of Naxos. In the evening, we walked to Chora and bought some souvenirs to bring back home. While having dinner at a one of the many local tavernas by the seaside, we realised that time flew by so fast and we only had three days left on the alluring island of Naxos. 

To be continued

 

Naxos, Greece – Part 1

Alkis and I had been planning our trip to Naxos since we came back from our Easter holiday in Corfu. Having searched the Internet, Naxos seemed to be a very attractive destination for our summer vacation. And it was, indeed! Alkis gave me the green light to look for a hotel online. "The hotel is your choice", he said. When I came across Glaros Boutique Hotel, it was love at first sight, or, at least at a first glance online. Although it was a bit expensive - €140 per night with an extra charge for breakfast – we booked it and never regretted it. We've always had a great summer holiday in the Greek Islands as well as on the mainland, yet Naxos was by far the best summer holiday we've ever had in years.

 

Rafina, Athens

 

DAY 1 – MONDAY, 13 JULY

I got up in high spirits early in the morning and went walking and swimming at Mackenzie Beach. Alkis is a workaholic, so, naturally, he went to work even though we were flying to Athens at 5:30 pm and from there to Naxos at 8:10 pm. Well, I chose the hotel, and Alkis arranged the flights with Aegean Airways to Athens and Olympic Air to Naxos.

No sooner had I finished packing than Alkis called from work at 9:30 am and said he had made a mistake. Our flight to Athens was at 5:30 am! We missed the flight as well as the flight to Naxos. I just could not believe it! But then again, no one is infallible. We all make mistakes even if these mistakes lead to loss of money and loss of holidays. Alkis was very upset, but I calmed him down and said that our suitcases were ready, and we could go somewhere in Cyprus. He said that he'd do his very best to get another flight to Athens and ferry tickets to Naxos the following day.

Finally, we flew Blue Air to Athens – a private Romanian airline. Alkis had already booked a room for one night at Cabo Verde Hotel in the area of Rafina close to the port where we took the cat (catamaran) to Naxos the following day at 7:30 am. We took a taxi to the hotel, but the taxi driver had never worked in the area of Rafina before and could not find the hotel! What's more, his GPS wasn't working properly! The taxi ride from Eleftherios Venizelos Airport to the hotel in Rafina took more than an hour, but the taxi driver was an honest man and did not overcharge us.

The bottom line is that we had a great night out in Rafina.

To be continued

The Island of Leros

I spent a holiday in Leros two years ago and as soon as I set foot on this island, I fell in love with its unique natural beauties and tranquil beaches. The island of Leros lies between Patmos, Lipsi and Kalymnos in the southern Aegean Sea and is part of the Dodecanese. Situated at about 300 km from Athens' port of Pireaus, it can be reached by an 11-hour ferry ride or a 55-minute flight from Eleftherios Venizelos Airport in Athens.

Leros Port

Panteli - Leros

 

Panteli-Leros

 

Panteli - Leros

Panteli - Leros

 

One of the most beautiful beaches of Leros lies on the southern coast of the island,  in Panteli, which is only a 15-minute drive from the port and capital city Platanos. Panteli is dominated by the slopes of Apitiki Hill where you can visit the Castle of Virgin Mary. Panteli is a fishing shelter with a well-organised beach, rooms to rent at very reasonable prices and quite a few tavernas where you can taste the delicious Lerian Cuisine. Taste the fish meze called koukouvada, fish marinata, pastous kolious and pitta bread with fava or a divine astakomakaronada - spaghetti with fresh lobster.  

Panteli-Leros

 

Leros Beach

 

Taverna by the Sea

 

Greek Village Salad

 

Astakomakaronada - Spaghetti with Fresh Lobster

 

Sunset - Leros

 

Don't forget to take back home some of the local mizithra cheese. You'll love it!

Where to Stay

Castelo Beach Hotel

Plaka – The Neighbourhood of the Gods

When in Athens, one of my most favourite places to visit is the area of Plaka. Only a short walk away from the buzzing city centre, Plaka is a haven of peace amid the usual hustle and bustle of the city. Winding roads, neoclassical mansions, houses with red-tile roofs, balconies with bougainvilleas, jasmine or geraniums compose "the neighbourhood of the gods" dominated by the Acropolis - the sacred rock that makes us Greeks so very proud of our illustrious ancestors and our Greek heritage - the most advanced civilization the world has ever known.

It's no wonder Plaka takes pride of place in the Greeks' hearts, especially in the hearts of the older Athenians who would have a glass of Retsina in one of the typical Plaka tavernas. In those days, every taverna had a guitarist playing old Greek songs such as the old Plaka "Kanta des". Later in the 60s, Plaka became the birthplace of the Greek "new wave" music inspired by the mainstream of the 60s in Italy and France. Many famous Greek artists first performed in one of those clubs, called "bots". What's more, one of the most well-known Greek films - Stella starring Melina Mercouri - was filmed at Plaka.

It was under the ministry of Melina Mercouri, in the 70s, that Plaka, which had turned into a nightlife spot, was upgraded and declared a solely pedestrian area. All the nightlife havoc moved to the areas of Psiri and Thesio. Thanks to Melina, Plaka found its real identity as the "neighbourhood of the gods." even though it has now become a main tourist attraction. Yet, Plaka hasn't been spoilt by tourism. It still preserves the aura of the past in the modern city of Athens.

Easter 2015 – Corfu, Greece - Part 3

Day 4 – Sunday, April 12, 2015

On this bright and sunny Easter Sunday, we wouldn't miss the grand Easter Concert and Parade. Philharmonic orchestras surge in the streets of the town centre playing joyous melodies in celebration of Jesus' Resurrection. Taking advantage of the good weather, we decided to get away from the crowded city centre and enjoy coffee at Kanoni – one of the best sites of Corfu and a place of truly unique beauty.

Kanoni lies to the south of the town of Corfu and is noted for the splendid view it offers to the visitors. I was impressed with the changing hues of the blue and green and turquoise of the waters. The landscape is supplemented by the world-famous "Pontikonisi". This is a beautiful islet whose name in Greek means "islet of the mice". There are no mice on the islet, but seen from afar the shape of the island looks like that of a mouse! There is a monastery on the islet dedicated to "Pantokrator" (All-Mighty God). Just opposite "Pontikonisi", there is another islet dominated by the monastery of "Panayia ton Vlacheron", which is dedicated to Virgin Mary.

Day 5 – Monday, April 13, 2015

We spent our last day in Corfu at Dassia, walking along the beach, talking and reading. Aegean Airlines flew us back home safely with a half-hour delay. The transition to routine was hard! At 9:00 pm , I cooked dinner, but I'm glad Alkis helped to prepare the tomato sauce for the spaghetti!

Easter 2015 – Corfu, Greece - Part 1

"There rose up

Large and lofty trees

Pear trees and pomegranates

The brilliant golden apples

And green olives

And winter or summer fruit never failed these trees."

Homer, The Odyssey, Book Seven

Corfu has a rich mythology and history, lofty examples of its art and culture. Each feature of its natural beauty is closely related to the legends and historical events that occurred there. It has received the praises of Homer and Xenophon as well as those of Casanova and Bondelmonti, not to mention contemporary artists from all over the world. They have fallen in love with Corfu and recorded its unique beauty and breathtaking scenery in works that have a special place in world literature and art. The island of Corfu was a bone of contention between the British, the French and the Italians who all passed through and left their mark. The history of the island is like a painting in itself where each culture left its own special "stroke" of colour, yet the one overriding fact is the vibrant spirit of the Ionian Islands.

Back in 1984, Alkis and I had lived and worked in Corfu for six months before we decided to settle down in Cyprus. Thirty-one years later, we thought it was time we planned a holiday on the island of the Phaeacians. Easter seemed to be the perfect timing since Easter in Corfu is said to be a very special and unique experience and a pole of attraction for many travellers from all over the world.

DAY 1 – Thursday, April 9, 2015

I got up early in the morning, feeling excited and looking forward to our Easter holiday in Corfu. I finished packing while Alkis was at work, had a light lunch and a nap in the early afternoon and then got ready for our trip to Corfu. Despite my fear of flying, I truly enjoyed our flight with Aegean Airlines which took off on time at 5:00 pm and landed us safely at Ioannis Kapodistrias Airport about two hours later. We got through customs in no time, and then a taxi drove us to our hotel in the area of Dassia – Corfu Palma Boutique Hotel. The General Manager warmly welcomed us in person and offered us a welcome drink while the efficient staff at the reception took care of check-in. We were shown to a beautifully decorated room on the third floor which we fell in love with at first sight. As we were on half-board basis, we spent our first night at the hotel and enjoyed a delicious dinner and a bottle of Strofilia, laughing away the hours and talking about all the great things we'd do in Corfu.

DAY 2 – Friday, April 10, 2015

The breakfast buffet at Corfu Palma Boutique Hotel was simply impressive and so very tempting! I was unable to resist the hot croissants and Greek pies or the variety of jams and cheeses and three cups of green tea. Soon after breakfast, we took the bus to Corfu town and strolled around the city, had coffee at Liston, a glass of ouzo and meze at Kanoni contemplating the breathtaking view to Pontikonisi. Then we took the bus back to Corfu town and enjoyed a traditional Corfiot lunch at Elia Restaurant.

Just before dinner, we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon at the hotel. We were very lucky to have  great weather. Even in late afternoon we could sit outside.

   To be continued