My Travels

Chania, Crete - July 2012 - Part 1

This was my fifth visit to the island of Crete, yet I feel that no matter how many times I travel to Crete, I always discover something new and I invariably enjoy the hospitality of the Cretans who will win your heart from the moment you set foot on the island.  It's really hard to resist the magic spell of Greece's largest island.

Chania - Old Port

Crete is also the second largest island in the eastern Mediterranean, after Cyprus, covering an area of  8,336 square km. It is located in the southern part of the Aegean Sea separating the Aegean from The Libyan Sea. Crete is divided in 4 prefectures (departments): Iraklion, Chania, Rethymno and Lassithi. It's also the most populous island in Greece with a population of more than 600,000.  The beauties of this island which looks more like a small country are uncountable! Crete is blessed with a wide range of landscapes and breathtaking scenery: gorges, lakes, rivers, dense forests, mountains and a coastline of more than 1,400 square km. In addition to its natural beauties, Crete is the the cradle of the Minoan civilization. The ancient ruins of Knossos near Iraklion are definitely worth a visit. 

The Lighthouse - Chania

Alkis and I have already been to the eastern coast, in Iraklion, Hersonisos and Elounda - Ayios Nicolaos, so this time we decided to travel to Chania on the western coast. 

Chania - Old Port

DAY 1 - July 9, 2012

I spent most of the day packing, checking my list and making sure I wouldn't forget this time important items, such as sunblock and suncream (I hardly ever tan, I just burn or turn lobster pink!), all my 7 bikinis, hats , T-shirts and sundresses, shoes for every occasion, handbags to match them, an evening outfit and, of course, T-shirts, shorts and pants for Alkis. Believe it or not, Alkis went to work from 8:00 am to 1:00 pm, then he came home, changed in no time and by 1:30 pm we were ready to take a taxi to Larnaca International Airport - a 5-minute drive from home.  We had time to shop cosmetics for me and cigars for Alkis, have a coffee and a snack before boarding Cyprus Airways at 3:00 pm. 

On the plane, I was nervous, as always, and I think I was the only one to give my undivided attention to the safety  instructions on the video even though I know them by heart. But it's good to have a reminder on every flight you take. Most people were chatting or reading newspapers not paying attention to the safety instructions or to the flying attendant showing the emergency exits!  How can they do that when everyone knows that most air crashes occur either before landing or take-off?  I squeezed Alkis's hand and, as a result, he dropped his newspaper. He smiled at me, kissed my hand and said: "I suggest you sit back and enjoy our flight to Iraklion." I did my best after having double checked that my seat was in upright position and my seatbelt was tightly fastened. Fortunately, I could also check the wings of the plane. They were slightly bent as they should be before take-off. I was sweating all over when the Airbus 310 started speeding up on the runway. I closed my eyes, squeezed Alkis's hand again, and prayed. Five minutes later, Alkis sweetly asked me if I could let go of his hand so that he could read his newspaper...comfortably! "No, not before the plane is up...in the air", I said. He assured me that the plane had been "up in the air" for 10 minutes already! Then I sat back and enjoyed my flight. I even ate a bit of the ham and cheese sandwich and drank some coffee.   75 minutes later, Cyprus Airways safely landed at Nikos Kazantzakis Airport, Iraklion, Crete! 

By 5:30 pm we had got  our luggage, went outside and looked for the man who would hold a signpost saying "Mr Maros". The taxi driver was nowhere to be seen! We waited for a while, then Alkis called the taxi service. They apologised saying that they had got the wrong arrival time. 20 minutes later, the taxi we had booked arrived and drove us to  Kolympari - Chania, 175 km from Iraklion - the capital city of Crete. At about 8:00 pm we checked in at one of Crete's greatest 5***** hotels - Avra Imperial Resort and Spa  at Kolympari - located 25 km from Chania, the second largest city of Crete.

Avra Imperial Suite - the outdoor lounge

Anna, the PR Officer, 8  months pregnant, elegantly dressed in black and white, showed us to 1 of 2 Avra Imperial Suites. Alkis said the suite including the private outdoor swimming pool was larger than our flat in Larnaca! We had a quick shower, got changed and tasted our first dinner at Vasilico Restaurant. We loved the food, then had an after-dinner drink at 10:00 pm and  at 2:00 am , before going to sleep, we had a great night swim in our private swimming pool.

Paphos, Cyprus - February 2012

Paphos is rapidly becoming the most popular holiday resort in Cyprus, chiefly because amid all the construction and development in the last 20 years or so, it has remained largely unspoilt. The small, picturesque harbour is a popular meeting / dining place. This is where you can also find some of Paphos' best fish taverns.  According to legend, Aphrodite - the Greek goddess of Beauty and Love - was born in Paphos, rising from the foam of the waves. The fact that Cyprus' second International Airport is situated nearby does not appear to have changed anything about this romantically sleepy coastal town, which happens to be our most favourite weekend away in Cyprus.

Last weekend was a festive one for Greece and Cyprus as we observed the end of the Carnival and meat eating and the beginning of the Great Lent on Monday, February 27th, always beginning on a Monday (Clean Monday) seven weeks before Easter Sunday. The Greek Orthodox faith follows a modified Julian calendar to establish the date of Easter each year and Easter must fall after Passover, so it does not always or often coincide with the date of Easter in other faiths.

Alkis and I decided to get away from routine for a while and spend the weekend in the beautiful town of Aphrodite.

Just arrived at Coral Bay Hotel and Resort 

We were very lucky to have had great weather throughout the weekend. On Tuesday and Wednesday we were almost frozen as temperatures went down to 3*C  in Larnaca and had snow in Lefkara - at about 20 km from Larnaca! To us here in  Larnaca that was extreme weather conditions! 

On Sunday night, we went to a Japanese Restaurant for dinner. Oh yes! I can live on Sushi and Maki!!!  Ricky surprised us with his culinary skills and... one-man show!

Platres, Cyprus - August 2011

Located on the southern slopes of  Troodos Mountains at 1200 metres above sea level and at about 40 km from Lemesos - the second largest city of the island,  the picturesque village of Platres is the jewel of mountainous Cyprus.  With the highest temperatures ranging between 1C (38F) in the winter and 27 C (80F) in the summer,  Platres has been  the island's most popular hill resort since the British rule.  The village has a population of about 400 inhabitants who live on tourism - mostly local - and agriculture.  This is where you will find the best cherries, pears, apples, apricots, nectarines and peaches but also tomatoes and cucumbers which taste so much better than the ones in the city.

 

On Friday afternoon, Alkis and I set off to Platres for a weekend away from the heat and humidity of the southern coast.  Although I'm not a mountain lover,  I always look forward to a getaway to Platres since this village brings back some of my childhood's happiest summer holidays.  Naturally, the village has changed a lot since then, it's almost a small town now, but the air is still filled with the smell of the pine tree and the village, built amphitheatrically in two levels Pano (Upper) Platres  and Kato(Lower) Platres still preserves the abundance of green poplar trees all over the area, the rivers, the waterfalls and meadows where I played as a child are still there, intact.

We stayed at Pendeli Hotel - a fine 3-star hotel in Kato Platres wich also boasts a swimming pool.  After breakfast, on Saturday morning, I suggested spending some time by the pool even though we were told that it was ...freezing cold! Alkis smiled and said that I was an ...incorrigible girl of the south and went on to add that he'd hate to catch a cold in August, so he sat in the shade reading his book and enjoying the cool mountain air.  Despite the sunny day and the blue skies, the water in the pool felt like melting ice. But I took a deep breath and dived. Home is only 5km from one of Larnaca's best beaches, so I don't usually like swimming pools but in the mountains that was the only alternative as I am not used to swimming in rivers! It was such an invigorating swim! Such a pity Alkis missed out on the pleasure!

In the evening,  we had dinner at Mimis Restaurant. We had a village salad, local wine, and one mixed grill portion which we shared. It was too big to have one each! It was one of the best mixed grill dishes we've ever tasted in rears and for only 40 euros including the starters and the wine. Before leaving the area earlier today, we went hiking  - a great exercise before driving back to the south.

 

Platres, Cyprus - August 2005

"Τ'αηδόνια δε σ'αφήνουνε να κοιμηθείς στις Πλάτρες" - "You cannot sleep in Platres for the nightingales" is a line from the poem "Helen" by the great Greek poet George Seferis who was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1963 for his eminent lyrical writing inspired by a deep feeling for the Hellenic world of culture.

Shy nightingale, hidden among whispering leaves,
you bring the echoing coolness of the forest
to the sundered souls and bodies
of those who know there can be no return.
Blind voice, fumbling in the dark of memory
for footsteps, gestures, what I dare not call kisses,
and the slave-woman's sullen anger.

"You cannot sleep in Platres for the nightingales".

(Excerpt from the poem Helen by George Seferis)

Forest in Pano Platres

George Seferis' poem Helen resumes, more or less, one of the most romantic weekends I've ever spent with Alkis. We set off for Platres at about 11 :00 AM on Friday morning. It just so happens that we both think that Cyprus offers great holiday destinations , not necessarily by the seaside.   The only sound that can keep you awake in Platres is the happy singing of the nightingales and the  the robins.

 
Anoi Tavern - Platres

Pendeli Hotel - Platres

Troodos is situated high in the forests at an altitude of 1920 metres (6299 feet) just below Mount Olympus, the highest peak in Cyprus at 1951 metres (6400 feet). The word Troodos means, "station" and technically, it is neither a village nor a town. Troodos was created by the British Colonial Government  to house the government during the hot summer months. The Presidential Summer Palace was the "Governor's Mansion" and the stone houses were used for housing the high-ranking officers. Lesser ranks would use private or communal "tents".

Platres

The largest and most popular resort is Pano Platres, sheltered by the forests, at an altitude of 1200 metres (3937 feet). This is the ideal base from which to explore the region. Kato Platres is a much smaller village, located at about 2-km south west of Pano Platres at a slightly lower altitude.

Pano Platres

The forests offer superb walking mostly along loose surface road tracks (disused mule trails or the old pre-tarmac road routes) with a comfortable mixture of open viewpoints and shade provided by the pine forests through which they have been cut.

Pano Platres

During the 1930's and 40's the mountain regions were popular with visitors from neighbouring countries, as they provided relief from the intense heat during the summer months. Today the resort is just as popular with Cypriots as it is with visitors from all over the world. You will find that Platres is often busier at the weekends (Friday and Saturday evenings) when locals escape from the hot busy towns for a well-earned weekend break.

 
Anoi Tavern, Platres

 Initially. we wondered what we would find in Platres at this time of year  compared to  ..Protaras for instance! The description "largest and most popular resort" brings to mind busy bustling streets and shops with noisy traffic. Fortunately Platres is a quiet resort so if you plan to visit the mountains to relax, it is the ideal location.... considering that you do not mind the singing of the nightingales , especially at night !  That said, there is plenty going on and there are just enough shops, restaurants and bars to keep it interesting. There are seven hotels in the resort and they are quite widely spaced, although most of the visitors are day-trippers who visit the various mountain villages with little time to spend in any one place. In the evening, when you have returned home, you can truly enjoy this tranquil location. 

Kato Platres

The village is uncomplicated, with a selection of hotels, restaurants and shops. There are three mini-markets or "general convenience stores" offering a wide selection of goods - foodstuff toiletries,  newspapers.  There are several gift and local craft shops,  a bank with cash machine, Police Station, Post Office and Tourist Information Office (open mornings).  There is a small central car parking area opposite the Police Station. You could easily walk across the main centre in five minutes!

 

We noticed that...

A one way traffic system is in operation during weekends in July and August but the road restriction is removed at other times (i.e. the "No Entry" road signs are hidden).Tap water  is pure and safe to drink.

We did not expect ....

We really did not expect to be cold at this time of year ! We had to buy jumpers at the local shop! The highest temperature was 24 degrees at midday going down to 13 degrees at night  and in the early morning hours.  The water temperature of the swimming pool at our hotel was below 18 degrees . To me, it felt very much like the temperature of ..... melting ice !!!

 

 

Introduction: My First Trip

It's been some time now that I've been toying with the idea of creating a new blog based on my personal experience of travelling, but I hesitated to do so  due to lack of time. However, the other day, a comment by my friend Summer Raine on Facebook prompted me to reconsider the idea.  Cypria, my other travel blog, is basically informative since it provides general information which could be useful to people planning to visit Greece and the Greek Islands. 

In this new blog, my aim is to share with you my personal experience of travelling not only to Greece and Cyprus but to other European countries as well.  I'll start by reposting my most recent trips since 2005, which I've already posted on my personal blog, hoping that my own experience might be useful to people who would like to visit these places while sharing my enjoyment of discovering new places. 

My first trip to Europe was quite eventful but one that  I'll never forget as long as I live since I derived so much pleasure and knowledge from. In July 1969, my family and I embarked City of Athens on her maiden voyage to Pireus, Greece.  My father had also taken the car in the ship since we were planning to travel through Europe for the next 3 weeks. Unfortunately, the weather turned stormy to such an extent that the captain announced that he had to anchor to the nearest port which was the island of Rhodes.   From there, Olympic Airways would fly us to Athens. Arrangements had been made so that we could get our luggage and the car in Pireus - the ship's final destination.We spent the night in Rhodes and the following day we flew OA to Athens. 

It was my first air trip and I was so excited! I wasn't scared at all and enjoyed every single minute...or almost. Just before landing,  we heard "Brace! Brace!" and I was wondering what on earth that meant when the captain announced that due to a technical problem with the front wheels of the aircraft which got stuck, he'd attempt an emergency landing and we should follow instructions by the crew. That was quite an experience. I wasn't scared at all, though. After all, the landing was ok.  We were then asked to leave all our belongings in the plane and leave the aircraft using a...slide! I thought that was fun.  Only when I got off the plane did I realise that we might have crashed! When I saw the plane, the smoke, the ambulances, the fire brigades I was terrorised terrified.  We spent three days in Athens, then we got the car and our luggage from the ship which had already arrived in Pireus and set off for Thessaloniki. We spent two days there and then we crossed the border:  Belgrad, Gratz, Vienna, Munich, Zurich, Bern, Lausanne, Geneva, Saint Tropez, Nice, Monte Carlo, then the Italian Riviera: Pietra Ligure, Santa Margarita. And finally off to Brindisi where we took the ferry to Patras,  Greece.  I only wish I had  some photos to scan for you, but they were all lost during the Turkish Invasion in Cyprus in July 1974.

It took me 7 years to board a plane again. My love of foreign travel far outweighs my fear of flying.  I only hope that one day I'll get over this fear and discover America, Australia, Asia and Africa.  However, my greaterst dream is to cross the Atlantic: Southampton - New York on board The Queen Mary  2