My Travels

Paris, France - January 2012

Paris is, undoubtedly,  the most visited European capital as it receives about 26 million tourists yearly.  I've been to Paris many times, yet each time I discover something new or something exciting. Paris is magical and romantic.... What's more, you can never have enough of Paris.

Day 1 - Monday, January 2 2012

The taxi was on time. At 8:30 am, we were driven to Larnaca International Airport and 2 hours later we boarded Cyprus Airways. I was even allowed to visit the cockpit in an effort to overcome my fear of flying. Say that I was shocked would be an understatement! The pilots were simply relaxing enjoying coffee and chatting... The Captain said I could ask questions and I did. I couldn't see a  stearing wheel for instance. He said that was necessary in emergencies only and that the Airbus 330 or 320 (not sure) is meant to fly by....itself.  We had stuffed turkey for lunch and just before landing we were offered melomakarona and kourabiedes! Four hours and thirty-five minutes later, Cyprus Airways landed...safely at Charles De Gaule Airport in Paris.

Just arrived at Opera-de-Noailles Hotel.

Alkis helped me unpack - that was fast because I had only packed a couple of jeans and jumpers. Then we had café-crème and galettes royales at L'Entracte.

The Opera

Day 2 - Tuesday, January 3, 2012

Soon after breakfast, off we went to rediscover Paris.  We took the bus to Trocadero and Eiffel Tower.

Trocadero - Eiffel Tower

Trocadero - Eiffel Tower

When in Paris - the grand capital of fashion- it is simply impossible to resist shopping at Galeries Lafayette

Galeries Lafayette

Day 3, Wednesday January 4 2012

It was a sunny day and so off we went for a leisurely walk at one of the world's most famous avenues - les Champs-Elysées. 

L'Arc de Triomphe - Arch of Triumph

On a sunny day in Paris, we enjoyed lemon tea and apple pie at  Pomme de Pain on Champs- Elysées and later had lunch at Fouquet's - a legendary restaurant in Paris. That's where I had the best coq au vin ever!

Fouquet's - Champs- Elysées

Day 4 -  Thursday, January 5 2012

In the morning, we went sightseeing again. This time we stopped at The Louvre - one of the world's most visited museums. Originally a royal palace, the Louvre became a public museum at the end of the 18th century. It is located in the 1st arrondissement.There are about 35.000 objects on display, spread out over three wings of the former palace. The museum has a diverse collection ranging from the antiquity up to the mid 19th century. A large part of the collection consists of European paintings and sculptures. Other rooms contain Roman, Egyptian, Greek and Oriental art. There is also a section with 'Objects d'Art', where objects such as clocks, furniture, china and tapestries are displayed. Some of the most famous works of art in the museum are the Venus of Milo, the Nike of Samothrake, the Dying Slave by Michelangelo and of course Leonardo da Vinci's Mona Lisa.

The Louvre Museum

In the evening, we enjoyed dinner at the Japanese Restaurant Nikko. Here's what I had - a boat filled with sushi, sushimi and maki! AND ...citron givré (iced lemon) for dessert. That was a kind of japanese sherbet in a lemon!

Day 5 - Friday, January 6 2012

Today we hesitated between visiting Eurodisneyland  or Notre Dame. We both agreed that it would be a pity to leave Paris without visiting Notre Dame de Paris

Next stop: Notre Dame

Notre Dame de Paris

Notre Dame de Paris

We had our last dinner in Paris at Le Petit Colbert - fillet steak with sauce bearnaise and green beans wrapped in bacon and served with chips.

Day 6 - Saturday 7, 2012

Last day in Paris. How sad! After breakfast, we walked down Opera Avenue and had a last brioche and coffee at Entracte, then we got croissants, brioches and baguettes to take home! Then back to the hotel to ...pack!

At Charles de Gaule Airport - reading the newspaper before flying back home.

Cyprus Airways landed at Larnaca International Airport on time and by 8:30 pm we were back home. Yet, my heart is still filled with ...Paris! 

Aphrodite's Hills, Paphos - October 2011

Photo taken on our previous visit to  Paphos in April 2011 - Petra Tou Romiou

After a terribly hectic week at work, both Alkis and I were looking forward to a weekend getaway. Aphrodite Hills - a holiday resort situated near the town of Paphos on the western coast of the island has always been  a favourite weekend destination. Aphrodite Hills was created in the middle of nowhere, at Petra Tou Romiou (The Rock of the Greek). According to Greek mythology, Aphrodite - the Greek goddess of Beauty and Love - rose from the white foam of the soft waves, floating on a sea shell and came to rest at Palepaphos where her Temple was erected.

In his Odyssey, Homer says:

But laughter-loving Aphrodite went to Cyprus, to Paphos, in her precinct and fragrant altars....

So off we went to Aphrodite's land. We stayed at the Intercontinental Aphrodite's Hills Resort Hotel endowed by Mother Nature with splendid views  to the hills and sea alike . I sometimes wish I were a painter to paint all this beauty! But before checking in at the hotel, we had lunch at Kastro Restaurant in the nearby village of Pissouri. We had fresh fish right out of the fisherman's basket.

On Saturday morning, we visited Kouklia - the centre of Aphrodite's worship Temple. The old village was situated in a commanding position on a flat-topped hill overlooking the valley. Kouklia was founded by Agapenor - King of Tegea (Arcadia, Greece).

Kouklia

Paphos Harbour

The Intercontinental Aphrodite's Hills Resort - Saturday Night Out

We spent the rest of the day strolling and shopping in Paphos. We had lunch at Zeus - the best Greek taverna by far in Paphos!  If you live in Cyprus and like Greek food, I'm sure you'll love Δίας / Zeus!

Cephalonia, Greece - July 2008 - Part 3

DAY 6 - TUESDAY JULY 15th

 

Just after breakfast, we decided to visit the village of Poros located at about 7 km from the hotel. Poros is a pretty, picturesque village that was built after the earthquake of 1953 to house the inhabitants of the surrounding mountain villages of Asproyerakas, Riza and Tzanata. The boundless, indented coastline - 2km long - boasts golden sandy beaches, small coves and transparent turquoise waters. Here, you may come across the protected species of the Mediterranean monk seals and loggerhead sea turtles There is also dense and varied vegetation with wooded hillsides, streams, abandoned watermills and torrents combining to form a scene of unique beauty. This is the most verdant part of an otherwise mountaineous island. The Poros ravine is also of exceptional beauty. A steep gorge with sudden perpendicular slopes is associated with wonderful tales of Greek mythology which claim that Herakles passed through here. There are also awe-inspiring marks in the rocks which are said to be his gigantic footsteps.

  

After having spent some time on the beach enjoying swimming and sunbathing, we spotted a small fish taverna by the harbour where we had fresh gavros and some ice-cold ouzo. To end a great Greek meal after an invigorating swim, we had a huge ice-cream for dessert which we shared - thus feeling less guilty about the extra calories !!! After lunch, we went for a stroll along the seafront and did some more shopping before taking a taxi to go back to the hotel. After a short siesta, we enjoyed coffee by the pool and yet another swim. Alkis talked me into a swimming race for two... I lost, of course ! That wasn't fair because Alkis has longer arms and longer legs than me, so he can swim faster !!! No hard feelings, though. We had a great laugh , anyway!

At about 7: 30 pm, while Alkis was watching the news on TV, I was having a blissful time in the jacuzzi with my new Dior mask on my face. Pampering myself after a hot day on the beach was just what I needed to feel fresh and fit for yet another romantic dinner under the stars at the candlelit terrace of Apostolata Island Resort.

DAY 7 - WEDNESDAY JULY  16th

   We didn't feel like going out, so we spent the whole day at the private swimming pool of our suite. It was a very lazy and relaxing day.

DAY 8 - THURSDAY JULY 17th

I got up early in the morning feeling as light as a feather ! In order not to wake up Alkis, I made a cup of Green tea which I enjoyed by the pool contemplating the blue magic of the Ionian. Alkis joined me a few minutes later and we both felt sad as that was our last day on the beautiful island of Cephalonia. He helped me pack most of our things leaving only toileteries and some clothes we'd need and at 7:00 am up we went the 143 steps to have breakfast. We both knew it was our last leisurely breakfast at Apostolata, so we had a little bit of everything ! Then I thought we'd spend our last day at the  swimming pool... But Alkis had one last surprise for me. He said we'd rather spend another day in Poros and I agreed as I really liked the beach there very much. Once there he made a mysterious phone call and soon after he suggested going to the harbour.

A friendly Cephalonian siad : "Your boat is ready!"

OUR boat ???...I wondered

Alkis thanked him, paid him and then ...turning to me he said : "Fair are the winds ! Welcome on board !"

I stepped on board hesitatingly. "Who's going to steer the boat ? " , I asked.

" Darling, I AM !" he replied proudly and with a broad smile.

I have known Alkis for 32 years ... I knew he had never steered a boat before. Nevertheless, I asked : "Have you ever steered a boat before?"

"No", he said, nonchalantly "but I guess it's like driving a car..."

Well, it was a motor boat, so I smiled back and teasingly said : " Nice to meet you, Captain"

Although we had a map and a compass, we got lost and first reached the beach of Ayia Efthimia. It was beautiful but overcrowded.

" Well..." Alkis said  "I guess there's a problem with the compass....".

"Until you.... fix it, Captain ", I said "how about an ice - cold frape?".

That's our national drink - Greek iced coffee. Back to the boat after a while and we headed for the secluded beach of Myrtos. There was not a living soul to be seen there, not even a loggerhead sea turtle!!! We spent about 2 hours there, swimming in those divine waters ! Then we sat on the beach and hungrily ate the fresh fruit we had bought at Poros and drank iced water we had in a thermos before sailing back to Poros .

" I won't mind if we get lost again", I said while singing "Karavaki mou Ksekina". Alkis was concentrating on the map and compass...

" Just imagine !" I added dreamingly " If , by mistake, we reach Ithaki, or Ikaria or Zakynthos ...or even Corfu!!!"

He smiled back saying ..."Wishful thinking ...we've only got enough petrol for ...Poros!" That was enough to reduce me to silence !

Back to the hotel late in the afternoon after the greatest holiday experience I've ever had ! While sipping some white Robola by the pool just before dinner, Alkis proudly said that steering a motor boat is ...a piece of cake !!! What more can I say for ...MY Captain Corelli ?

And here ended our last day on the island of Captain Corelli !

Cephalonia, Greece - July 2008 - Part 2

DAY 2 - FRIDAY JULY 11th

 After a great night's sleep, we woke to the unique beauty of the Ionian as seen from our suite. We had an invigorating early morning swim in the pool and then headed for breakfast. It was really hard to resist the hot pancakes and croissants as well as the variety of rolls, freshly baked bread, an assortment of home-made marmelade, the colourful array of juicy fresh fruit... not to mention the crispy bacon, the fried eggs, baked beans and grilled sausages, or the wide range of cheeses, muffins and sweets...to mention only a few of the yummy delights at the breakfast buffet.

  Having eaten a royal breakfast, we went for a stroll through the luxuriant gardens of the hotel and then down to our suite where we spent the rest of the day listening to  music, lying in the sun or swimming in the pool. Just before lunch, we had cold beers by the pool while admiring the infinite blue of the Ionian...I just couldn't have enough of it.

  By 1 :00 pm, we discovered to our surprise that we were ..starving to death ! We enjoyed our lunch in our swimming suits at the pool restaurant. I loved the grilled swordfish served with fresh vegetables while Alkis had his usual grilled chicken and chips.

 

DAY 3 - SATURDAY JULY 12th

It was yet another lazy summer day spent in the privacy of our suite and changing into something more decent only to go to dinner. 

  

DAY 4 - SUNDAY JULY 13th

 Alkis and I decided to spend yet another day in the privacy of our suite at Apostolata Island Resort and Spa - what we decided to call "a small paradise on earth" We didn't get bored not for one single moment. So, it was another lazy summer day which ended with a romantic dinner at the exquisite terrace of Apostolata main restaurant. The sumptuous dinner buffet included a variety of Greek and International dishes and live cooking - such as grilled meats, fried calamari, octopus, spaghetti carbonara and crispy french fries. For starters, we could use our own imagination and choose amongst a great variety of greens to compose our own salad with the dressing of our liking. A wide range of fresh fruit and desserts including "loukoumades" cooked live and served with honey and crashed walnuts was the ultimate temptation we were unable to resist.

 

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DAY 5 - MONDAY JULY 14th

   Just after breakfast today, we decided to explore the surrounding area. So we took the hotel's shuttle bus to visit the nearby village of Skala - situated at about 4 km from Apostolata Resort. Skala is a picturesque,coastal village built after the 1953 earthquake at the south-eastern extremity of Cephalonia. Skala boasts one of the island's most beautiful sandy beaches surrounded by pine trees. We spent all morning on the golden beach enjoying swimming in those amazingly crystal-clear waters. After having done some shopping - mainly souvenir gifts for friends and family- we had lunch at a typically Cephalonian taverna called "La Luna" . For starters we thought we'd try the local speciality - "Kefalonitiki Kreatopita" - the famous Cephalonian meatpie- and "melitzanokeftedes", local aubergine balls. Believe me they're delicious ! For main course, I had souvlaki with chips while Alkis tried their "bifteki" (kind of Greek burger) . After this copious meal, we went back to the hotel, had a nap, then coffee by the pool.  Then a ..light dinner - just salads. Although both Alkis and I appreciate good food , there was practically no more room for anything else ! Well, I also had a very small piece of their delicious chocolate mousse! Then we went up to the bar for a last after-dinner drink. There we met a very nice couple , also from Cyprus, and chatted away. At about 1:30 am, we were back to our suite, had a divine night swim and just before going to sleep , I sadly thought that  we only had ..three days left !

TO BE CONTINUED   

Cephalonia, Greece - July 2008 - Part 1

 

 Alkis and I had been looking forward to this holiday since Easter, when we actually decided to make a dream come true. 25 years ago, soon after we got married in Geneva, we had to leave our beloved Switzerland where we met and fell in love and move to Corfu, Greece. Alkis had just graduated from the hotel school and was offered an important job in Corfu Hilton. So off we went and spent a year there. As soon as I set foot on Corfu, I fell head over heels in love with the island and the Eptanese in general -the Seven Islands of the Ionian Sea - the largest being Cephalonia or Kefalonia, in Greek. During our stay in Corfu - the second largest island of the Eptanese- we never had the chance to visit Kefalonia which is rated 5th in the world for its awe-inspiring beaches and crystal-clear waters. Not to mention the friendly and so very hospitable Cephalonians.

 The Cephalonians are hospitable, friendly people with smiling faces and a heart of gold. Although the island has turned into one of the world's most popular holiday destinations since 2001 - when Irene Papas, Nicolas Cage and Jennifer Cruz starred in "Captain Corelli's Mandolin" which was shot in Sami , Cephalonia - the locals have remained the pure, authentic Greeks they were before some Hollywood producer chose their isle to shoot a blockbuster. Certainly, the film added to the island's popularity, yet Kefalonia has been boasting its unique beauties since antiquity.

 Eight days and seven nights in Cephalonia are definitely not enough to fully explore  the most beautiful island of the Eptanese . Alkis and I wanted to relax and unwind, spend lazy days at the pool or at the beach rather than hire a car and get around the island. We only visited the surrounding area near our hotel. Maybe some other time, we'll have the chance to revisit this fantastic island and explore it all.

 

DAY 1 - THURSDAY JULY 10TH

Alkis and I woke up to the happy sound of the alarm indicating 6:00 am and reminding us that we had to be at the airport by 7:30. We chatted happily over breakfast going through some info on Cephalonia which I had printed from the Internet the night before. There weren't many people at the airport at that time, so check in was fast and easy. Our flight to Athens on Aegean Airways left on time and I must admit that I greatly enjoyed it despite my fear of flying. The weather was great and the flight quite uneventful. I even enjoyed the hot breakfast served on the plane - actually that was my second breakfast of the day ! It was 10:15 when we landed at Eleftherios Venizelos Airport in Athens. We had just enough time for some more coffee before catching the flight to Cephalonia at 11:40.  The plane was much smaller - it wasn't an Airbus this time- and I felt rather uneasy about it shaking all over during take-off. Alkis, however, sounded quite reassuring when he told me for the umpteenth time that statistically the aeroplane is the safest means of transport ! Well, I managed to relax a little and enjoy the iced orange juice offered during our 40-minute flight to Cephalonia.

 

 A taxi driver sent by the hotel was waiting for us to take us to Apostolata Resorts and Spa Hotel  situated near the village of Scala at about 40 minutes from Argostoli - the capital of the island. On our way there, we chatted to  Argyris - the taxi driver - who recommended us some great places to visit in the surrounding area. A winding road passing through cute little villages led up to the mountain slope where the hotel complex stands overlooking the Ionian Sea. A smiling lady warmly welcomed us and soon afterwards we were driven through the luxuriant gardens of the hotel down to what I thought was our room. Dimitris stopped in front of a cute bungalow and carried our luggage down a wooden staircase that led to our room. I was very surprised to see that there was just one door there which Dimitris unlocked wishing us an enjoyable stay at Apostolata Resorts. "Ladies first", Alkis said and I stepped into our "room". I was dumbfounded!! All I could utter was a series of "wows". That wasn't a ...room ! It was a luxurious suite or should I say a kind of condo or flat ??? "Are you sure this is no mistake?" I asked Alkis when my normal voice came back. "No, this is not a mistake", he answered teasingly. "Don't you like it?" Like it ? That was an understatement ! I loved it!

 Not bothering to unpack, I explored the suite switching back to ...wows as I discovered the DVD and CD players in the living room. There was also free Internet connection but when I'm on holiday, I never carry my laptop or my mobile phone. The bed in the bedroom was huge and the bathroom twice the size of my study room at home!  "And this is not all", Alkis said, teasingly again, as he drew the curtains and led me to the deck ! WOW ! A private swimming pool and a patio furnished with rattan furniture and fluffy white cushions was going to be ours for the next eight days and ...seven nights.

 Having recovered from my new "wows" crisis, I worriedly asked my husband : "Are you sure we won't have to do the washing up before we check out next week?" Alkis smiled and said: " As a matter of fact, YOU will do the washing up !" teasing away again. But as I sat back in the fluffy cushions by OUR swimming-pool for the next eight days while Alkis was serving us cold beers, I felt like Penelope Cruz  over a break during the shooting of "Captain Corelli's Mandolin" . I guess Alkis was ...Nicolas Cage but in a much more handsome version !

 By 3:00 pm , I could eat a horse despite the double breakfast of the day ! Although it was terribly hot and humid, we decided to go up the 50 steps leading to the main pool restaurant. We both had some ouzo and  mini burgers served with chips and greek salad. We had melon and water melon for dessert which was most refreshing on a hot day like that! We spent the rest of the afternoon unpacking and swimming in the pool filled with sea water ! Our first day ended with a romantic dinner in the main restaurant overlooking the Ionian Sea.

 

TO BE CONTINUED

Rhodes-Symi, Greece - August 2006 - Part B

Day 4 - Tuesday August 8th 2006

After our memorable trip to Symi, we got some rest and then got ready for  the Black and White gala dinner at  Varkarolla Restaurant. The night theme was Black & White.... I decided to dress in total black - I hardly ever do so - just for a change from the total white look. And I thought Alkis should be ...in white. Unfortunately ... I had packed for him just a pair of white trousers and a pair of white loafers ...but no white shirt or T-Shirt. OK , fair enough ..the shirt was azure blue AND white...so I can say he was almost in white. Of course , I suggested him going downtown and buying a brand new total white outfit  just for the Black and White theme night !! ...But he said that he didn't need any more clothes and that no one would really notice the light blue of his ...almost white checked shirt !

 At 9:00 pm we were down to the restaurant and were glad to see that the Maitre d" had booked for us a rather remote table. It was such an exquisitely romantic evening ... A superb red by Lazarides was elegantly served in the correct temperature - 17-18 degrees Celcius - and we were having a great time when ....the accident happened! I reached out for his hand when ..by mistake ...I spilt his glass of red wine on the sparkling white linen trousers ! I was on the verge of tears ... I thought the evening would end in disaster ...but then again I saw that broad smile and he said : " In Northern Greece this means ...luck ! So ..let's dance !"  I've known Alkis for almost ...soon 30 years. I am very glad he can still surprise me.  And we danced away the hours...till early morning.

Day 5 - Wednesday August 9th 2006

LOVE MEANS WATCHING AEK PLAYING SCOTLAND WHILE ON HOLIDAY !!!!

I'll start ...backwards. In the evening we had dinner at a touristy restaurant in the bay of Ixia - Demetrios. The food was ..ok but we watched AEK playing Scotland. Believe it or not ... I watched the match as well even though I hate football! He was so sad , so disappointed when Scotland scored ( I forget the name of the Scottish team ). I tried to cheer him up telling him that every cloud has a silver lining ... and started explaining the phrase in Greek when he said : " Enough is enough ! " I sympathised with his frustration and added: " You will see...in the last 5 minutes AEK will win ! " He frustratingly added: "Will you please ...shut up ????" I was in the Ladies' room when AEK scored ! I was so thrilled ! 

As soon as I came back from the ladies' room he hugged me and kissed me  and I said that AEK would score a second goal ...No sooner had he reduced me to silence than AEK scored again ! Needless to  say .... we celebrated the victory till the early morning hours.

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Day 6 - Thursday August 10th 2006

Just another lazy day spent on the beach and at the swimming pool sunbathing, swimming, reading, playing in the pool and talking away the hours. We spent the evening at our favourite pub and tasting the local cuisine at a nearby tavern.

Day 7 - Friday August 11th 2006

  It was such an exciting day ! We decided to visit the island today, so we got up early, had a huge breakfast on the terrace of Iliades Restaurant on the 10th floor, overlooking the spectacular bay of Ixia, went for a walk at the almost deserted beach and set off at about 08:30.

  We followed the west coast of the island  and after about 8km we reached Trianta - a village which stands among orchards, very close to the sea.. The whole bay here (approximately 10km) is packed with modern hotels - almost half of the hotels in Rhodes are concentrated on this bay. At the village of Trianta, we turned left, thus going inland. At about 5km, in a dense pine wood, we reached the archaeological site of Ialyssos. The area of Ialysos was inhabited at an early age - in the Minoan period at around 1550 BC - and flourished during the period of the Mycenaeans. Evidence of this is provided by the cemeteries at Moschou Vounara and Makra Vounara in the foothills of Filerimos.

 A peculiarity of Filerimos is that its top does not consist of a peak but of a kind of platform of some 600 hundred square metres. The archaeological site extends to a higher point of the mountain, which we can reach by following a stepped roadway flanked by cypress trees. On the left we can see the foundations of the temple of Athena Polias in Doric style. The destruction of the temple must have occurred in the early Christian period when a basilica was built over the greater part of it. Much later, a monastery was built by the Knights as well as another church on the site of the Byzantine church.

After a  short coffee break in the shade of the pine trees, we continued our way inland and reached the Valley of the Butterflies. Here, we enjoyed a delightful stroll through the evergreen valley among the plane trees and the cool running water, which sometimes flows in streams and sometimes forms little waterfalls. There, on the trunk of the trees, from July to September, tens of thousands of butterflies from the Calimorpha family find refuge, charmed by the balsam produced by the trees. As you can see on the photos, when they close their wings, the red colour of the inside is not visible and thus they do not form a contrast with the trunk. The rhytmic sound of the water accompanied us throughout our stroll. At one point, it forms a small lake, the home, among the water lillies, of ducks and geese.. tradition has it that if the  visitor who comes here for the first time throws a coin into the lake and makes a wish, this will be granted.

From the Valley of the Butterflies we returned to the main road and travelled south-westerly. Passing through green hills and valleys, we climbed the grey , rocky mountains, leaving behind the seashore and its deep blue waters. Our next stopping-place was the ancient city of Cameiros. In the middle of the south-western part can be seen the foundations of a Doric temple dedicated to Apollo - the god of music.Excavation has discovered public baths at the northern extremity of the settlement while the houses are situated to the east and west of the central road reached by following 12 steps. In some of these houses, which have survived in good condition since the Hellenistic period (late 3rd or early 2nd century BC), there is an inner courtyard - the atrium - surrounded by a collonade.. Further south, the road begins to climb and brings us to the highest point of the hill - the acropolis - of Cameiros at a height of 120 metres above sea level. This is where the Temple of Athene Polias stood. All that can be seen today are remains of the foundations of the temple and the precinct  of the sanctuary. The view from up there is simply awesome !

  After this fascinating stroll in... ancient Greece, we left Cameiros and returned to the main road and continued our trip climbing between hills up to the village of Kritinia which clings to the side of Mount Atavyros. That's where we stopped for a delicious Greek coffee at the "Kafeneion" (the village cafe) situated - as always in Greek villages - in the central square next to the church. Four kilometres south of Kritinia, there is a road junction. The road to the left leads to Embonas - the highest village on the island of Rhodes at 850 metres. Here the locals (about 300) still wear the traditional Rodian costume, keep up their tradition of multi-coloured embroidery and wine making, while most houses provide a good idea of the traditional dodecanese architecture. It was lunch time by then and we were starving !!! We enjoyed the local cuisine and tasted the village wine at a traditional taverna before visiting the local winery. Having bought some of the delicious wine of Embonas we returned to the main road driving southwards to the picturesque village of Apollakia where we visited a ceramic workshop and bought lots of souvenir gifts for us as well as for friends and family.

  A few kilometres further south we stopped at the Byzantine Church of Agios Nektarios where we lit a candle, said a prayer and drank crystal-clear water. Back to the car shortly afterwards....now driving along the eastern coast of the island. After a coffee break at Faliraki - the former fishing village turned into a major tourist resort - we travelled westwards again towards Paradeisi and back to Rodian Amathus !

  We had a shower , got changed and went up to the Rodian bar on the 11th floor where we enjoyed a glorious sunset on the bay of Ixia and... the Happy Hour with  refreshing cocktails. Although we had eaten a lot at lunch time at Embonas, we spent the rest of the evening in the privacy  of our suite and ordered dinner at the room service !

What a memorable day that was !

 

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Day 8 - Saturday August 12th 2006

Funny how time flies when on holiday ! This was our last day on the beautiful Island of Rhodes - being the nearest Greek island to Cyprus, capital of the Dodecanese and situated in the southern Aegean Sea.

After breakfast, I spent time packing - the saddest chore after a memorable holiday ! - and then we decided to visit the only part of Rhodes we hadn't visited - the Medieval City and , of course Lindos.

  

  At Chora or Burgo (old city), we visited a couple of churches built in the Byzantine period and in the time of the Knights and public buildings such as the Palace of the Castellan, the Admiralty and the Hospice of Saint Catherine. From the Square of the Jewish Martyrs, Demosthenous and Pericleous streets start out. There are two Byzantine churches in these streets, known , respectively as the Dulapli Cami and the Mihrab Cami as a result of their conversion into mosques by the Turks. We returned to Ippocratous Square by way of Socratous Street, which is today the busiest street in the Old City. Lined with its old, low houses , it has lost none of its picturesque character. As you can see on the photo, the end of Socratous Square is dominated by the Mosque of Suleyman which stands on the site of the Byzantine Church of the Holy Apostles.Socratous Street is succeeded by Orpheous Street, at the beginning of which is the famous Clock - a 3-storey tower which was a gift of Tahri Pasha to the Turks of the city.

We had cold frapes at Socratous Street, before setting off to the east coast of the island with its charming villages and uncrowded beaches. Having driven through Kallithea, Faliraki, Afantou, Kolymvia and Massari, we arrived at Lindos - one of the three city-states founded by the Dorians (Ialyssos, Cameiros and Lindos). A rocky hill rises between two sheltered bays. Its top is dominated by the acropolis (=highest point) of Lindos. The acropolis is reached on foot (hard work ! ) or on donkeys ...We decided to choose the donkeys ! The view from the top is unique ! The bay of Lindos with its fishing-boats on one side and on the other the calm waters of the cove of Agios Pavlos, where tradition says that Saint Paul anchored in 57 AD. According to mythology, it was Lindos - grandson of the sun-god Helios - who first colonised this place and was first inhabited in the Neolithic Age by the Achaeans.

We had lunch at Pefkos - a nearby village - and by 5 pm we were back to the hotel. After a last coffee at the Pool Deck of the Rodian Amathus Beach Hotel, we went for a last walk on the pebble beach just opposite, had dinner at a local taverna and then took a taxi to Diagoras Airport.

At  12:30 am Cyprus Airways took off and yet another great summer holiday had just come to an end.

Rhodes-Symi, Greece - August 2006 - Part A

Rhodes, one of the Mediterranean's most beautiful islands, lies in the southernmost part of the Aegean Sea, very close to the shore of Asia Minor (Turkey). The ancient Greeks were so taken with its charms that they associated its beneficent climate with a myth that has lived on down to our own times. According to this myth, Helios - the life-giving sun god - enchanted by the island's natural beauty, asked Zeus as a favour to let him be its protector and benefactor. Ever since then, Rhodes has been flooded with sunshine and the rays of its favourite god have showered their gifts upon it.

It would seem, though, that Rhodes has been favoured by all the gods, since throughout its history it has known moments of greatness and glory and emerged as one of the most important regions in the whole of Greece. The cultures which have been developed on its soil have each enriched it with their own achievements and have left their mark upon it as one has succeeded the other. These marks have remained indelible down to the present, giving the impression that every part of the island is none other than a different plane in the mechanism of time. Next to the white marble of the ancient temples and statues, the half ruined walls of the settlements and sanctuaries where the gods of Ancient Greece were worshipped, stand the little Byzantine churches with the gaze of the ecstatic figures in their wall paintings fixed on the heavenly God of all Christians. A little further on, the narrow streets lead to medieval palaces and castles, from which you expect to see knights in armour charge forth. At the same time, from behind high walls, the domed roofs of Turkish mosques and the crossed arches of the low houses in the Turkish quarters make their presence felt.

Nevertheless, all those images from the past have not robbed Rhrodes of the pleasures of modern life.  On the contrary, they have made a crucial contribution to the island's development, making it one of the most cosmopolitan places in Europe. Thus, the pace of its life has sped up and has become a tourist centre of the greatest importance. Its harbours are full of ships, yachts and fishing boats, its beaches are covered with multi-coloured sun-shades, its hotels cater to every taste and echo to the sound of every language in the sun, its streets are filled with tourist shops, Greek tavernas,restaurants, bars, cafés, pubs and clubs, where music and dancing bring the night to life.

In fact, Rhodes can grant any wish of the holidaymaker. The island's capital - the city of Rodos - and Faliraki can provide a good time that will be long remembered, Oxia and its luxury hotels put to shame la Côte d'Azure in the South of France, the Old Town will enchant the romantic, the modern city and Mandraki will supply every need of the shopper, the indented coastline with its beaches will provide a cooling swim in the hot afternoons, and the parks, squares and woods are ideal for quiet walks. At the same time, the mountain villages will give the visitor some idea of local tradition and allow them to breathe the scented mountain air and the aromas of tasty country cooking. At the local festivals, which are frequent, the visitor can enter into the rhythms of greek music and dancing. As for those who want to learn about the history of Rhodes, they will find lots of traces of a glorious past scattered everywhere: the settlement of Cameiros, the cemeteries of Ialyssos, the imposing rock of Lindos, the deserted monasteries, the churches of Filerimos, the forgotten castle of Monolithos, the palaces and fortifications of the capital and the Turkish baths and mosques which bring the West closer to the East.

However, whatever are the visitor's wishes and expectations, no one can avoid feeling the shadow of the Colossus - one of the seven miracles of the world - who still haunts the old harbour. The bronze giant of Rhodes of bygone times - its protector the Sun - will always be there to halt the flow of time and link yesterday with today.

************************************************************************************** Day 1 _ August 5, 2006

I spent practically all morning packing... Just before midday everything was ready, so I did make time to log on Typepad and pre-schedule some posts - basically jokes because I didn't have much time for anything more elaborate ! After a short siesta and feeling very excited , I started getting ready for our holiday in Rhodes. Our flight with Cyprus Airways was scheduled at 00:05 but the plane took off with about 30 minutes delay ...as per usual. But then again ...better late than never!

 

Fifty minutes later Cyprus Airways landed safely at Diagoras Airport, Rhodes. I was sooooooooooo excited ! We had some trouble getting a taxi ... had to queue for about 20 minutes. Finally , we had to share a taxi with another couple. Our hotel was not far from the airport , so in about 10 minutes we arrived at Rodian Amathus.

Having been warmly greeted by the friendly staff at the reception desk, we were shown in our suite. Wow !! I was impressed! It was a two-storey suite ! We were shown to a spacious living-room very nicely decorated, with an equally spacious terrace equipped with sunbeds and a small table with three chairs. While waiting for the porter to bring our luggage, hubby and I stood at the terrace contemplating the sparkling lights of Oxia Bay. The soothing call of the waves reminded us that the sea was only a breath away ... The porter arrived shortly - he was fast and efficient - he brought us our luggage and explained a few things about the suite. It was only 02:30 am but I was very curious to see the bedroom. Well, I know ! Curiosity killed the cat !!! But I did go up the wooden staircase and was thrilled to discover a very cosy bedroom and a second bathroom ..much larger than the one in the living - room. Back to the living-room ....we were both starving as we hadn't eaten anything since lunch the previous day ! At 2:45 am all the restaurants of the hotel were closed, so we ordered snacks from the 24-hour room-service : At that hour our choice was somewhat limited but we thoroughly enjoyed spring rolls, a Greek village salad, a Margarita pizza and a bottle of red ...Kapnias by Hadzimichalis. I'm not sure if that was ...dinner or breakfast !!! We finished eating at 4 : 00 am !!! And then we spent yet another hour sitting on the terrace and finishing off our wine. Funnily enough, neither I nor Alkis felt the least bit tired! *************************************************************************************** Day 2 - August 6, 2006
This is what we woke to the following day. Although we slept for only a couple of hours, we were as fit as a fiddle at 9:00 am! Having had a royal breakfast at the terrace of Iliades Restaurant on the 10th floor overlooking the Oxia Bay, we decided to visit the capital - the modern city of Rodos. It was unbearably hot ...but we did enjoy the stroll and the food at one of the many Greek tavernas at Mandraki. Back to the hotel at 4 : 00 pm for ...a glorious siesta time ! A bit too long considering that we had hardly slept the previous night ! In August,the night is young on the cosmopolitan island of Rhrodes. So ..here we go ..back to Mandraki . We had dinner at one of the tavernas there - see photo - and then after-dinner drinks at the hotel while gazing at the Aegean Sea till 2 : 00 am and listening to the rhythmic murmur of the waves.
Day 3 - August 7, 2006 A lazy day , today. After having been thoroughly disappointed by the beach ... a pebble beach and a rough and not so clean sea ... we decided to relax at the pool on the 11th floor - a swimming pool actually built on an evergreen mountain, with a spectacular view to the sea and the whole of Oxia Bay. In the evening , we wandered in the nearby touristy area. *************************************************************************************** Day 4 - August 8 2006 This summer holiday, Alkis and I decided to spend more time exploring the island rather than sunbathing and swimming. So today, we set off on a day-trip to the nearby island of Symi on board Symi II.
The ship sailed off from the harbour of Rhodes at 09:15 am. The weather was great, the winds were fair and the sea was calm. Symi is one of the most picturesque islands of the Greek Archipelago; virile, rocky and arid, Symi - Princess of the Dodecanese - wins the affections of the visitor with its crystalline waters, lofty rocks, neoclassical settlement, the delicate lacy coastline, the large maritime shrine of Panormitis, the Byzantine and post-Byzantine monasteries and chapels - most of them with significant hagiographs.

The island's inhabitants keep their manners and customs alive with the ship yards, the fishing life, the religious festivals, the hidden inland woods, the folk craftsmen and musicians and even more that have won thousands of admirers from all over the world due to the daily transfer of shiploads of tourists to Symi from neighbouring Rhodes.
The approach to the island is possible only by sea, the easiest route being by way of Rhodes from which the distance to Symi is about 26 nautical miles, or via the sea route from Pireus at about 250 nautical miles.

At about 11:00 am, the bay of Panormitis opened up in front of us as Symi II slowed down and anchored at the maritime shrine. I was impressed by the monastery in the cove pointing up to the sky with its tall bell-tower. Amongst a fair amount of greenery, next to the sea, the historical monastery appears. After having visited the monastery and the folk-art museum, we continued our voyage on board Symi II - now heading to Gialos. We arrived at 1 : 00 pm and had 3 hours at our disposal ! We could either visit ...Chorio ( by climbing 356 steps)... or have lunch ! Alkis and I decided to be less brave , so we had lunch at one of the traditional ouzeri at Gialos.We were both delighted to taste the local cuisine: spinados(a kind of fish snack), octopus and grilled lobster, small red prawns with black eggs, sea bream with ladolemono (lemon and olive oil sauce), galeos and skordalia ( a kind of fish fillet similar to cod with garlic) - all being the catch of the day , directly from the fisherman's boat . And , of course, ouzo on the rocks !

Platres, Cyprus - August 2011

Located on the southern slopes of  Troodos Mountains at 1200 metres above sea level and at about 40 km from Lemesos - the second largest city of the island,  the picturesque village of Platres is the jewel of mountainous Cyprus.  With the highest temperatures ranging between 1C (38F) in the winter and 27 C (80F) in the summer,  Platres has been  the island's most popular hill resort since the British rule.  The village has a population of about 400 inhabitants who live on tourism - mostly local - and agriculture.  This is where you will find the best cherries, pears, apples, apricots, nectarines and peaches but also tomatoes and cucumbers which taste so much better than the ones in the city.

 

On Friday afternoon, Alkis and I set off to Platres for a weekend away from the heat and humidity of the southern coast.  Although I'm not a mountain lover,  I always look forward to a getaway to Platres since this village brings back some of my childhood's happiest summer holidays.  Naturally, the village has changed a lot since then, it's almost a small town now, but the air is still filled with the smell of the pine tree and the village, built amphitheatrically in two levels Pano (Upper) Platres  and Kato(Lower) Platres still preserves the abundance of green poplar trees all over the area, the rivers, the waterfalls and meadows where I played as a child are still there, intact.

We stayed at Pendeli Hotel - a fine 3-star hotel in Kato Platres wich also boasts a swimming pool.  After breakfast, on Saturday morning, I suggested spending some time by the pool even though we were told that it was ...freezing cold! Alkis smiled and said that I was an ...incorrigible girl of the south and went on to add that he'd hate to catch a cold in August, so he sat in the shade reading his book and enjoying the cool mountain air.  Despite the sunny day and the blue skies, the water in the pool felt like melting ice. But I took a deep breath and dived. Home is only 5km from one of Larnaca's best beaches, so I don't usually like swimming pools but in the mountains that was the only alternative as I am not used to swimming in rivers! It was such an invigorating swim! Such a pity Alkis missed out on the pleasure!

In the evening,  we had dinner at Mimis Restaurant. We had a village salad, local wine, and one mixed grill portion which we shared. It was too big to have one each! It was one of the best mixed grill dishes we've ever tasted in rears and for only 40 euros including the starters and the wine. Before leaving the area earlier today, we went hiking  - a great exercise before driving back to the south.

 

Zurich, Switzerland - January 2006

Although Geneva is one of the most beautiful cities of central Europe and my most favourite city in Switzerland, I can't deny the charm of Zurich - the largest city of the Swiss  Confederation.  Unlike what many people believe, it is Bern, not Zurich, the capital city of the confederation.  With a population close to 400,000 in the city, Zurich sits on Lake Zurich, it  is the major financial centre of the country and houses the stock exchange and the headquarters of a plethora of national and international companies. For many years, Zurich has been ranked with the highest living standard world-wide and  is Europe's wealthiest city. 

Zurich is often referred to as the "portal to the Alps" due to its proximity to many tourist resorts in the Swiss Alps, such as  Klosters, Davos, Arosa and Saint Moritz.  It's got the country's busiest airport and train station. The official language is German (hoch deutch) but almost everyone speaks the Swiss German dialect (Schwyzerdütsch ). The most common dialect in Zurich is called Züritüütsch. Unless you master the Swiss German dialect better than your own language,   I don't advise you to use their dialect as this might be offending to native speakers.  Most people understand German perfectly well , which is also the language of instruction in Zurich's schools, and speak French and English fluently. 

There are so many things to see and do in Zurich - I could write hours on end about them. But here's what I enjoy most when visiting Zurich.  You should by no means miss a visit to Kunsthaus, one of the major Swiss art museums. Its specialities are modern sculpturer Giacometti and the surrealist 18th Century painter Fuseli, both Swiss.  Do some window shopping along Bahnhofstrasse - the world's most expensive shopping street - and if you can afford it shop designer clothes,  Hermes bags, Christian Laboutin shoes or some of Cartier's finest jewellery. As rou walk along Bahnofstrasse, you will arrive at Paradenplatz - one of the most expensive pieces of real estate in Switzerland which has become synonymous with wealth and the Swiss banks, being the location of the headquarters of both UBS and Credit Swiss - the country's most renowned banks which date back to the 19th century.  Do stop for a a coffee at the Confiserie Sprüngli  opened in 1859.  Try their  capuccino and a piece of their extraordinary Grand Cru Sauvage Truffle made from wild cacao beans from Bolivia. Most items are rather pricey but worth it.

Bahnhofstrasse starts at Hauptbahnof (main train station) and ends at Lake Zurich. From there you can take a stroll in the old city. Grossmünster in Zwingliplatz is an romanesque church, symbol of reformed Zurich, where reformer Huldrych Zwingli was appointed the people's priest in 1519.  In the old city there are many typically swiss restaurants where you can taste raclette, fondue and emincé zurichoise.

Don't leave Zurich without taking a short trip to Zug  - Switzerland's smallest canton. The town’s location on the crystal-blue Zugersee is very attractive, framed by the high wooded plateau of the Zugerberg rising 600m to the east.  

Mallorca, Spain - August 2004

When I asked a very good friend of mine to spend a holiday in Mallorca together, she jumped at the idea.  So off we went to explore one of the most beautiful islands of the Mediterranean Sea. We booked the attractive package through Louis Tourist Agency. The Eurocypria flight was  hired by the travel agency for our group only.  Our flight was expected to take off at 7:10 pm and left on time. We were greeted by the attractive flight attendants dressed in traditional spanish costumes! That was a lovely surprise.

Arenal - Palma de Mallorca

Porto-Cristo

Four hours later, at 10:15 pm local time, Eurocypria was landing at Son Saint Joan Airport.  That's where the ..adventure began! We couldn't find our luggage. It was quite by chance that I spotted it at a different luggage carousel for the flight from Lisbon!!! Thank God , our  bus was still waiting for us and did not leave without us! We were driven to Gran Fiesta Hotel and gathered at the reception with our guide, Miranda - a Greek Cypriot living in Spain.  But soon after our arrival, Miranda left. My friend and I had to wait for about two hours in order to be given a...double room.

We had booked and paid for two single rooms! It was hard to communicate with the receptionist who only spoke Spanish, then another receptionist came who could , at least,  poorly communicate in English. He asked us to ...wait. Finally, he said that our booking from Louis was a double room and showed us the reservation. I called Miranda and  explained that my friend and I were overbooked because of a mistake by her travel agency and went on to add that we didn't mind at all since once back to Cyprus we'd claim  a full refund of our package holiday...unless she made a different arrangement for us. She did, indeed, and we finally stayed at a 5-star hotel on the northern coast of Palma.

Convent Luch

The island of Mallorca is the biggest island of the Baleares covering a surface of 3,640km and 320km of coast where you can find lovely bays and golden beaches.  Palma, capital of Mallorca, is an internationally reputed tourist centre. The charm of the city - the "golden city" according to Ruben Dario - lies in the immaculate blue of the sea, the  colourful Born or the elegant Passeig de Sagrera. The Cathedral stands by the old walls and predominates the seafront.

My friend in Palma

Travelling through Tramuntana Mountains,  we arrived at Deila where the English writer Robert Graves lived for many years. We swam in the crystalline waters of the small cove before heading to Soller - a small town situated at about 10 km from Deila. Soller is noted for its square and solid houses dating back to the 18th century but also for its church - a work of art by Joan Rubio. And from there we sailed to Torrent de Pareis.

Tramuntana

The Torrent de Pareis Gorge was formed over thousands of years by the abrasive action of water from two major rivers, the Torrent de Gorg Blau and the Torrent de Lluc which meet at an area known as S'Entreforc, meaning "between the fork". From here the river continues down through a narrow canyon and over boulders  to finally open up and reach the open sea at the little beach of Sa Colobra.

Starting from the Puente de N'Amor, the blue of the sea becomes more intense and the beaches and coves in continuous succession offer the visitor a unique sight of amazing beauty: Platge de Sa Coma, Cala Moreia,  S'Illot, Cala Morlanda....Most were once havens for pirates and when this danger disappeared, they became the outputs to the sea of small villages. Over time, the beautiful scenery of the area made ​​this part of the coast a favourite place for the summer holidays of the inhabitants of surrounding villages. We temporarily left the coast and drove inland to the second largest city in the Balearic Islands: Manacor, at 13 km from the coast. Manacor is an agricultural town with a huge industrial vitality. It has two important industries: woodworking and and artificial pearls known worldwide as the Majoricas Pearls. We stopped briefly at one of the pearl factories where I got a pair of earrings and a necklace at a very reasonable price.

Caves del Drac

Porto Cristo, the port of Manacor, is one of the liveliest resorts in Mallorca. The beauty of the surrounding landscape, the splendid beach and the nearby caves of Drac led to its development. It  is also one of the oldest anchorages of the island as evidenced by a Roman boat which was found, buried under the sand, close to the mainland. The Coves del Drac were explored in 1896 by a French speleologis, Edouard Martel. According to  Martel , the caves were formed due to the filtration of seawater through cracks and crevices of limestone.

Soller - Porto Cristo

Swimming in crystalline  turquoise waters at Soller

The Caves del Drac cover a surface of about two kilometers and are formed by four caves: the Cave of the French, the  Cave of Louis Salvador, the White Cave and the Black Cave. The stalactites and stalagmites invade the interior space, sometimes separately, sometimes together, forming capricious compositions that gave rise to names like Fairy Theatre and Baths of Diana. The caves white at first, then reddish or bluish, follow the natural effects of artificial illumination produced by the Catalan engineer Carles Buigas.

Son Amar Night Hall - Palma

Naturally, we couldn't leave Mallorca without attending a traditional Spanish show at one of Palma's major night halls or without tasting their delicious seafood paella and their sausages called Sobrassada. Similar in colour to Spanish chorizo (due to the presence of paprika), it is made from pork mince, bacon, salt and spices.  And, of course, we couldn't resist  a glass of sangria!

Frankfurt -am-Main, Germany - May/June 2006

The Römerberg

 Our stroll through the medieval city centre of Frankfurt started right here, on the Römerberg . The oldest historic traces of settlement in Frankfurt are to be found near here, on the hill where the cathedral stands, safely above flood level on the banks of the Main. The Frankfurt Messen or trade fairs once used to be held here on the Römerberg. Along the west side, the city had the Römer rebuilt after its destruction in 1944 as authentically as possible. The side facing the square consists of five medieval façades behind which is the Town Hall.

After being rebuilt in the late gothic style, it served as the Town Hall together with the building  behind it - the Goldener Schwan. The other four gabled buildings were bought by the city: the renaissance buildings of Alt Limpurg and Löwenstein as well as other buildings at the back leading right through to the Paulsplatz. It was here in the Town Hall that the Princes Elector used to negotiate before electing their Emperor and then met for the concluding banquet in the Kaisersaal ( the Emperor's Hall). The ordinary people had also something to enjoy : on such grand occasions, the fountains on the Römerberg ran with wine instead of water, oxen were roasted on the spit and there was every kind of entertainment as well.

Goethe's House

We continued our walk through medieval Frankfurt in the rain, with the temperature hardly rising to 12 degrees C but it was worth it ! The next building we visited to the left of Saint Paul church was the Alten Rathaus (the Old Town Hall), an extension building put up in about 1905. We passed under a section connecting it with the larger part of the Town Hall, and then followed the Braubachstrasse, turning right (according to our map) into Kornmarkt and left into Weissadlergasse. At the end, the Grosse Hirschgraben branches off....and that's where we got lost!! Alkis whose German is almost fluent asked a passer-by the way to Goethe's House. Believe it or not, the kind gentleman offered to take us there!! How very kind of him !

Goethehaus is the the birthplace of the greatest German writer - the father of the modern German language. He was born in this superb ..palace on August 28th 1749 and lived here till 1775 when he moved to Weimar. After the World War II destruction in 1944, the city of Frankfurt rebuilt the house (well...a real palace to me !) as an identical copy of the original so that the visitor can once again look at a fine example of how wealthy citizens lived in the 18th century.

 Here is Goethe's original desk seen in the Dichterzimmer(poet's room). This is where he wrote his Götz von Berlichtingen and Die Leiden des jungen Werthers - the works which were to make him world-famous within a very short time. Unfortunately, photos of Goethe's puppet show in the adjoining room, came out very dark as I wasn't allowed to use the flash. Respecting the country's precious culture, I used indoors mode / no flash on my Nikon - yet snapshots in darker rooms were unsuccessful.

In the adjoining museum, it is possible to follow the prince-poet's biography with the aid of pictorial documents while at the same time you can look at his portraits as well as those of his contemporaries.

Having spent almost 3 hours in the Goethehaus , I now feel I have learnt much more about the great poet whose fame has gone far beyond the German borders while at the same time I have most certainly enriched my poor knowledge of German literature and poetry.

Today, Frankfurt has about 660,000 inhabitants and no less than half a million jobs, as some 300,000 commuters, visitors and travellers come into the metropolis on the Main every day. This calls for good traffic access and flexibility, because such enormous numbers of people can only be handled if there is a good local public transport system. The suburban electric and underground railways (S Bahn and U Bahn) are the indispensable means of transport for the offices in the city centre. In the opposite direction, for the long-distance trains, there is the Hauptbahnhof - the mainline station which handles one of the largest numbers of passengers of any other station in Europe. Moreover, the Rhine-Main airport is continental Europe's most important air-travel intersection. as the city is also at the point where major European trunk roads intersect, it is the ideal location for the head offices of numerous multinational companies and banks, for international trade and tourist fairs, congresses, foreign representations as well as the ideal starting point for exploring the romantic side of Germany along the Rhine, Mosel, Main and Neckar.

Nevertheless, this business centre is also well worth visiting in its own right: it has its own unique mixture of historic buildings and skyscrapers in the Manhattan style. There is an unimaginable wealth of traditional and cultural exhibits spread around more than 40 museums, 20 theatres with international shows, numerous libraries and archives, various colleges and research institutes.No wonder Frankfurt has one of the largest culture badgets in Germany.

 A city of this world standard obviously also offers attractive shopping facilities. The most popular streets for shopping are the Zell - the shopping street with the highest sales turnover in the whole of Germany, the Fressgrass and the even more exclusive Goethestrasse with all the famous designer labels : Gucci, Hugo Boss, Escada, Armani, Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, D & G, Chanel, Cartier to mention only a few. It is rather more peaceful on the Mainpromenade and in the very generously proportioned belt of parks and gardens around the central area of the city. These are laid out where once the city's defensive walls stood. There are also numerous sports grounds lost in the midst of the biggest area of municipal woodland in Germany.

Nearly 2 million visitors, accounting for a good 3 million overnight stays, come to Frankfurt every year, where 19,000 hotel beds in all categories accommodate them. The range of restaurant facilities is just as great, offering a cross-section across every kind of cuisine from all over Europe, Asia and Latin America and , of course, including traditional German wine bars and restaurants. In the suburb of Sachsenhausen, part of the Altstadt (old city), there are many local-style pubs , restaurants and cafes serving Ebbelwel - a strong form of cider, Handkaes mit Musik - a cheese speciality , the original Frankfurter bradwurst (sausages), the famous Grune Sosse (green sauce) and , naturally, the Frankfurter Krantz - a mouthwatering cream cake. The most reputed traditional restaurant in the area is Wagner situated at Schweizerplatz, Sachsenhausen.

Platres, Cyprus - August 2005

"Τ'αηδόνια δε σ'αφήνουνε να κοιμηθείς στις Πλάτρες" - "You cannot sleep in Platres for the nightingales" is a line from the poem "Helen" by the great Greek poet George Seferis who was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1963 for his eminent lyrical writing inspired by a deep feeling for the Hellenic world of culture.

Shy nightingale, hidden among whispering leaves,
you bring the echoing coolness of the forest
to the sundered souls and bodies
of those who know there can be no return.
Blind voice, fumbling in the dark of memory
for footsteps, gestures, what I dare not call kisses,
and the slave-woman's sullen anger.

"You cannot sleep in Platres for the nightingales".

(Excerpt from the poem Helen by George Seferis)

Forest in Pano Platres

George Seferis' poem Helen resumes, more or less, one of the most romantic weekends I've ever spent with Alkis. We set off for Platres at about 11 :00 AM on Friday morning. It just so happens that we both think that Cyprus offers great holiday destinations , not necessarily by the seaside.   The only sound that can keep you awake in Platres is the happy singing of the nightingales and the  the robins.

 
Anoi Tavern - Platres

Pendeli Hotel - Platres

Troodos is situated high in the forests at an altitude of 1920 metres (6299 feet) just below Mount Olympus, the highest peak in Cyprus at 1951 metres (6400 feet). The word Troodos means, "station" and technically, it is neither a village nor a town. Troodos was created by the British Colonial Government  to house the government during the hot summer months. The Presidential Summer Palace was the "Governor's Mansion" and the stone houses were used for housing the high-ranking officers. Lesser ranks would use private or communal "tents".

Platres

The largest and most popular resort is Pano Platres, sheltered by the forests, at an altitude of 1200 metres (3937 feet). This is the ideal base from which to explore the region. Kato Platres is a much smaller village, located at about 2-km south west of Pano Platres at a slightly lower altitude.

Pano Platres

The forests offer superb walking mostly along loose surface road tracks (disused mule trails or the old pre-tarmac road routes) with a comfortable mixture of open viewpoints and shade provided by the pine forests through which they have been cut.

Pano Platres

During the 1930's and 40's the mountain regions were popular with visitors from neighbouring countries, as they provided relief from the intense heat during the summer months. Today the resort is just as popular with Cypriots as it is with visitors from all over the world. You will find that Platres is often busier at the weekends (Friday and Saturday evenings) when locals escape from the hot busy towns for a well-earned weekend break.

 
Anoi Tavern, Platres

 Initially. we wondered what we would find in Platres at this time of year  compared to  ..Protaras for instance! The description "largest and most popular resort" brings to mind busy bustling streets and shops with noisy traffic. Fortunately Platres is a quiet resort so if you plan to visit the mountains to relax, it is the ideal location.... considering that you do not mind the singing of the nightingales , especially at night !  That said, there is plenty going on and there are just enough shops, restaurants and bars to keep it interesting. There are seven hotels in the resort and they are quite widely spaced, although most of the visitors are day-trippers who visit the various mountain villages with little time to spend in any one place. In the evening, when you have returned home, you can truly enjoy this tranquil location. 

Kato Platres

The village is uncomplicated, with a selection of hotels, restaurants and shops. There are three mini-markets or "general convenience stores" offering a wide selection of goods - foodstuff toiletries,  newspapers.  There are several gift and local craft shops,  a bank with cash machine, Police Station, Post Office and Tourist Information Office (open mornings).  There is a small central car parking area opposite the Police Station. You could easily walk across the main centre in five minutes!

 

We noticed that...

A one way traffic system is in operation during weekends in July and August but the road restriction is removed at other times (i.e. the "No Entry" road signs are hidden).Tap water  is pure and safe to drink.

We did not expect ....

We really did not expect to be cold at this time of year ! We had to buy jumpers at the local shop! The highest temperature was 24 degrees at midday going down to 13 degrees at night  and in the early morning hours.  The water temperature of the swimming pool at our hotel was below 18 degrees . To me, it felt very much like the temperature of ..... melting ice !!!

 

 

Holidays in Crete - July 2005

Day 1 : Monday, July 18th 2005

I was most looking forward to this holiday with my best friend , so I was unable to conceal my excitement when the big day came. The CY flight to Heraklion left at 19:15 and landed at 20:20 at Nicos Kazantzakis airport in Heraklion. My best friend, Tepi, had already arrived from Athens the previous day, so she came to pick me up at the airport. In order not to miss out on the enjoyment of our first evening, we decided to spend the first night at Royal Mare Village which is only  30 km away from Heraklion.

After having a beer by the pool, we set off for our gastronomic experience in Crete since we both love fine dining. Our first gastronomic stop : Candia Restaurant at Royal Mare. The Restaurant is practically built on a small swimming pool. A wooden bridge gives you access to the elegant sourroundings of this superb restaurant. We had  a caviar mousse with fresh crayfish for starters and  lobster with grilled vegetbles for main course.  Crème brulée for dessert and our choice of wine was Adoli Gi. We had after dinner drinks in our room and chatted away till the early morning hours.

Day 2 - Tuesday , July 19th 2005

After a royal breakfast, we went to the Royal Mare Thalasso where we had booked a 4-hour spa treatment for only 200 euros! Pampering ourselves was a big promise we had made when booking this holiday! I had a unique spa experience which I will certainly never forget!! Here's what I had !!

1. 10:00 am - Beauty Relax- a hydro and firming treatment for the face

2. 10:30 am - Beauty Royal Look - an eye contour ...divine treatment !

3. 11:00am - Body peeling

4. 11:40 am - Aerojet relax bath !!

5. 12:00 pm - Aqua Royal - guided aqua gym at the special indoor swimming pool. Most invigorating !

6.  13:00 - A 25-minute massage relax ! So much for pampering myself - the complete relaxation after a unique spa experience.

In-between treatments herbal tea was offered and ...it goes without saying that I was NOT allowed to smoke !!!

To... cool down after the royal dinner at Candia, we had a light salad and grilled fish with vegetables for lunch.

After a short siesta, we were ready to set off for Elounda.

Elounda is a bustling tourist resort on the North East coast of Crete. Within the prefecture of Lassithi it has a population of over 2000, although this greatly swells by the peak of the season to include temporary workers, holidaymakers and day visitors.

Its nearest major town is Agios Nikolaos, less than a 10km drive to the south away, which sits on Mirabello Bay. Elounda is popular with both expat residents and holidaymakers of a variety of ages, although mainly couples and families. Good quality beaches and a variety of watersports are available within easy walking distance of the centre and one of the resort's most popular sights is the island of Spinalonga which is serviced by numerous trip boats in the season.

A true resort with the accompanying shops, restaurants, facilities and entertainment.

The wider Elounda area is made up of a number of small villages that spread from the bay up into the hills and also along the shoreline towards the north coast. The main street and harbour plus many of the surrounding streets constitute what is known as Schisma. Following the road along the bay takes you past the areas of Mavrikiano (set high up, but less than 1/2km from the centre, next is Tsifliki, a small hamlet and finally the road reaches the northern point of the bay at Plaka which sits immediately opposite the island of Kalidon (the modern name for Spinalonga). If you were to leave the village by heading up into the hills you would reach the areas of Kato (Low) Elounda, Pano (High) Elounda and then Kato Pines and Pano Pines before it heads off in the direction of Neapoli.

We set off for Elounda at 6:30 pm and ariived at Elounda Mare Hotel at 7:30pm - Tepi is a very careful driver !. We were offered champagne during check in and then we were shown to our suite. Despite the luxury, I had the vague impression that I was staying at a typically Cretan mansion!! Spyros Kokotos - the owner and architect - has absolutely respected both the environment and the traditional Cretan architecture!

We enjoyed our dinner at the Old Mill Restaurant at the hotel. The restaurant is named after the centerpiece mill stone at the bar salvaged after a dilapidated medieval coindmill Ah well ... Dinner resembled  a .... midsummer's night dream !! We had foie gras with caramelised cray fish for starters and then lobster cooked in a fine champagne sauce. Tepi who is an expert in gastronomy chose the wine! Samaropetra tou kyr Yianni by Boutaris. We had crépes Suzette flambées for dessert. Our first evening at Elounda Mare Hotel ended with Grand Marnier and Amaretto at Karavia Bar named in respect of the four antique paintings of merchant ships KARAVIA adorning the back wall of the bar.

Day 3 - Wednesday , July 20th 2005

At about 8 am, Tepi and I woke to the breathtaking view from our suite and to yet another sunny day in Elounda. We enjoyed our breakfast at 9:00 at the Deck Reastaurant. I only had 4 croissants with homemade orange jam , various cheeses, and fruit, coffee and grapefruit juice. After this exquisite breakfast, we walked through the hotel's luxuriant gardens down to the private beach which reminded me of Protaras. A small sandy bay with crystal clear waters...the only difference being the colour of the sea - azure to deep blue. I think that the incredibly turquoise sea at Protaras is unique in the world !

We stayed at the beach till 2:00pm, then we had beers in our suite and then lunch at the Yach Club Restaurant.  Tepi had seafood sald and I thought I'd have a break from fish and ordered chicken kebab on pitta bread ...all washed down with a fine wine from Antonopoulos collection.

I went back to the beach at about 4:00pm and enjoyed a short siesta on the sunbed in the shade of an olive tree after which I had a great swim till 6:00pm. I went back to the suite, Tepi suggested ordering coffee at the room service...Actually , I was dying for an espresso....The big surprise came with the coffee!!! I was in the shower when our order was delivered and , all of a sudden, Tepi started shouting out to me ! "Come and see ! What a surprise ! " Well , I thought some cake was offered with the coffee...and shouted out to Tepi ... "I am coming !!!"

Well .. I was wrong ! There was no cake with the coffee ...Just a bottle of champagne ..Laurent Perrier ...and a letter....A surprise from hubby who said ... "Have a great holiday!" Ah, well  he can still put tears in my eyes ...even after 27 years !

We had dinner at Elounda Peninsula Hotel next door  which belongs to the same company as Elounda Mare. Calypso, the most refined and awarded restaurant of the company is named after the mythical nymph Calypso who, according to Homer, kept Odysseus on her island for no less than 10 years. The consulting chef is no other than Jacques Le Divellec, the famous Parisian chef. We had a divine foie gras for starters followed by fresh lobster cooked in Cretan herbs and ...mousse au Grand Marnier for dessert! I chose the wine ... a Californian one- Napa Valley: Very dry and very balanced !Despina Vandi ( the famous Greek singer) and her footballer husband of hers, Nicoilaides (= the  Greek equivalent for Victoria Becham and ..David I think ....) were dining  at this very same restaurant just a table away ! Curiously enough ... they did not ask me for an autograph !!! I suppose they hadn't realised they were dining next to a ...semi goddess !!!

Day 4 - Thursday, July 21st 2005

We started our fourth day at 9 am chatting happily while enjoying our breakfast on the elegant terrace of the Deck Restaurant. At about 10 we went down to the beach. The hotel owns its own private beach which is a small sandy bay within Mirabello Bay. I wish there were private beaches in Cyprus. In Cyprus all beaches are public by law enforcement and no one has the right to own a beach. The private sandy beach of Elounda Mare Hotel is a havoc of peace and quiet luring you into the crystal clear waters of the small bay.

Manolis, the beach boy, would serve us frape or cold beers which arrived with  mouthwatering fresh fruit on a colourful skewer. At about noon, when the sun was getting stronger, Manolis would offer us soft cold towels which were more than welcome.

At 3 pm, we had lunch at the Yacht Club Restaurant overlooking the bay. We had Dakos for starters - a Cretan delight!  Dakos is a mainstay on the Cretan table, made with hand-stone-ground wheat and/or barley, flour (occasionally oat, rye or chick-pea flour).  It's twice-baked for a long shelf-life then reconstituted with water and/or olive oil at the dinner table.  Sometimes dakos is topped with oregano, grated tomatoes and mizithra (fresh sheep’s milk cheese) or dropped into sauces and soups.  It’s an ancient crouton designed for people on the move...nomadic shepherds,
freedom fighters.  It's also the tasting spoon for olive oil straight from the press.

After these delicious dakos, Tepi tried the chicken kebab on pitta bread while I thorougly enjoyed cold roastbeef with tartar sauce. Our choice of wine : Orinos Spyropoulos. Just after lunch, I went down to the beach again while Tepi decided to have a siesta in the room. It was 7pm when I left the beach to get ready for the full moon gala dinner and moonlight serenade which we had booked for 8pm at the Yacht Club. When I rang the doorbell of the suite...I got no reply! The door was locked and Tepi had the key. I found it very strange since Tepi clearly said that she wouldn't lock the door while she was sleeping so that I could get in , anytime. I rang again ...no reply ! Thinking that she might have gone down to the beach, I went back there looking for her..but she was nowhere to be found! So, I called her on her mobile phone ...still no reply !! Went up again and rang the doorbell at least 25 times. NO REPLY ! That was when I really started to worry... Trying to keep calm, I went down to the Reception and asked the receptionist to ring Tepi in the room. At last !!! A....sleepy reply!! I was so relieved ! Tepi had been simply lost ...in deep sleep to such an extent that she didn't hear the cleaning lady who had come for the night service and thought she'd better lock the door !!

In less than 15 minutes (!) , Tepi was ready for the full moon gala dinner and I ..panicked as it usually takes me hours to get ready ! Our reservation was for 8pm. I suggested Tepi going while I finished getting ready. Ah well ! I was only 20 minutes late. The gala dinner was perfect ! We had champagne cocktails for aperitifs followed by a 5-course dinner and one of Hadjimichalis' best white wines. And then the moon rose from behind the mountains - a jewel of radiant luminance in perfect unison with the dark sky of the Cretan Sea. I was only very disappointed to have failed the photos of this unique sight as I had forgotten how night landscape is set on my digital camera ! As the moonlight kissed light upon the darkness of the sea, the home band of Elounda Mare entertained us with Greek and international moonlight serenades!

We finished the evening sipping coffee and liqueurs at Karavia bar while contemplating the magic of the full moon.

Day 5 - Friday, July 22nd 2005

Here are the highlights of our fifth day :

9:00 am - breakfast at the Deck Restaurant

10:00 AM - 1:45 PM : swimming and lying on the beach drinking frape and lemon Perrier with ice while ...conversing about ..MEN !

1:50PM - 2:30 PM - quick shower in the room  (we didn't like not being accepted for lunch at the Yacht Club in our swimming costumes !!) One reason why I didn't use all my 35 bikinis ! Had beers and nuts and crisps on the terrace of our suite while  talking about ...MEN !!!

3:00 - 4 :30 PM - lunch at the Yacht Club.  Tepi had stuffed tomatoes and green peppers (gemista). I was the ..naughty one and had burger with chips and ketchup ...Yummy-yummy !!! Tepi's choice of wine : Skouras ! Excellent !!!

In the evening , we decided ...(at last !!!) to leave the premises of the hotel and go to Ayios Nicolaos - about 8km away ! We took a taxi ....because ... if you drink don't drive  and if you drive don't drink !!! Migomis Restaurant is situated at Plastiras , Ayios Nicolaos (tel. 2841024353) with a breathtaking view on the lake. We just loved the restaurant and the pianist ! The food was excellent! We had spring rolls and mpourekakia with cheese and aubergine for starters and .. AND ...a glorious astakomakaronada for main course! It's spaghetti with lobster ... the shell is nicely placed at the side showing the quality and the size of the lobster !

Just look at it , please !! Look at the shell !! Personally , I couldn't finish it. It was too much !! But it was delicious !!!  We had Nostos Manousaki 2003 for wine - a Cretan wine - and vanilla and cinnamon ice cream  for Tepi. Espresso and Grand Marnier Red (no ice) for me !

Back to the hotel .. at about  2 : 00 AM ... we sat for a while at the balcony .... and talked about ... MEN's habits !!!...till 4:00 AM

Day 6 - Saturday, July 23rd 2005

After having spent yet another glorious day on the beach, we decided to try one of the most reputed gastronomic restaurants of the area, La Bouillabaise at Minos Art  Hotel - the very first hotel in the wider area of Elounda. So much the worse for the waistline!! I did my very best to choose something healthy and tasty so I had grilled squid with tomatoes and feta cheese for starters and fresh salmon with dover sole for main course while Tepi had prochiuto with grilled vegetables followed by sea bream in fyllo and caramelised cheese!! I was too full to have a dessert.  Tepi had a mouthwatering parfait mousse chocolat !! Our choice of wine : Gerovasiliou - Chardonnay 2002.

After dinner , we felt like going to a bar and thought we'd try Veggera Bar at Elounda Beach hotel -just next door to Elounda Mare. The bar is situated on the beach and we loved the romantic atmosphere and the VIP treatment we received - had comfortable armchairs brought although we did not ask for them and we were the only ladies to be offered a red rose !!! Ah , well !! The barman must have known I am a semi-goddess sent to Earth by Almighty Zeus !! However, we hated the music ...supposed to be ..cool down music!!! and we hated the Russians behind us who didn't stop laughing and talking very loudly !! Tepi had her usual Amaretto but I didn't know what to order so I asked the barman to bring me something ..exotic, something....cool, something ...not too strong !! "I know ", he said self-confidently and came back with something called .... Mohito !! I loved it and had two Mohitos !!

At about 2:30 AM we went back to our hotel, but I felt like being naughty so I hid in the wardrobe while Tepi was in the bathroom!! Poor Tepi ...looked everywhere to find me ..even outside in the corridor !! Finally, she opened the wardrobe !!! (Ohhhh ! Sotos !!! It was ....dark in there !). Ah , well , we had such a laugh !

The highlight of the night out : Mr Petros Pagias our taxi driver (tel 6944616629) - the best taxi driver ever  with a great sense of humour , too ! He said he could tell a Finnish and a Swedish apart because of their accent in English ! The Finnish stress the letter -r and pronounce for example Blue Brrrrrrrrrridge ! Whereas the Swedish only say ....blue brrridge ! (Greek humour !!)

Day 7 - Sunday, July 24th 2005

Time flies when on holiday ! My last day  at Elounda Mare ! I felt very sad when packing this afternoon...Tomorrow morning we're driving back to Hersonisos and Royal Mare Village where lucky Tepi will spend yet another day whereas I am flying back to Cyprus. We had our last dinner at Yacht Club, our last coffees and liqueurs at Karavia Bar, our last ...grapevine on the balcony of our suite. Talking about ...men ...as per usual !!!

Day 8 - Monday, July 25th 2005

We left Elounda at about 11 am and arrived at Hersonisos, Royal Mare, at around midday. We had beers by the pool , then a swim. At about 2 pm we had lunch at the hotel and I was thrilled to see that they had Imam Baildi !!! ..my most favourite meal !! After a short siesta and a couple of espressos , Tepi drove me to the airport. I was sad to leave ..yet , on the other hand , I felt blessed for this unique friendship - a 28-year old friendship - with Tepi. The pilot was ...great !! I didn't really realise when he touched the ground of Larnaca International Airport ! It must have been the tasty CY sandwich and the red wine !! ( Ais Ampelis ). I am now looking forward to my next holiday in Platres ...with hubby this time !!

Introduction: My First Trip

It's been some time now that I've been toying with the idea of creating a new blog based on my personal experience of travelling, but I hesitated to do so  due to lack of time. However, the other day, a comment by my friend Summer Raine on Facebook prompted me to reconsider the idea.  Cypria, my other travel blog, is basically informative since it provides general information which could be useful to people planning to visit Greece and the Greek Islands. 

In this new blog, my aim is to share with you my personal experience of travelling not only to Greece and Cyprus but to other European countries as well.  I'll start by reposting my most recent trips since 2005, which I've already posted on my personal blog, hoping that my own experience might be useful to people who would like to visit these places while sharing my enjoyment of discovering new places. 

My first trip to Europe was quite eventful but one that  I'll never forget as long as I live since I derived so much pleasure and knowledge from. In July 1969, my family and I embarked City of Athens on her maiden voyage to Pireus, Greece.  My father had also taken the car in the ship since we were planning to travel through Europe for the next 3 weeks. Unfortunately, the weather turned stormy to such an extent that the captain announced that he had to anchor to the nearest port which was the island of Rhodes.   From there, Olympic Airways would fly us to Athens. Arrangements had been made so that we could get our luggage and the car in Pireus - the ship's final destination.We spent the night in Rhodes and the following day we flew OA to Athens. 

It was my first air trip and I was so excited! I wasn't scared at all and enjoyed every single minute...or almost. Just before landing,  we heard "Brace! Brace!" and I was wondering what on earth that meant when the captain announced that due to a technical problem with the front wheels of the aircraft which got stuck, he'd attempt an emergency landing and we should follow instructions by the crew. That was quite an experience. I wasn't scared at all, though. After all, the landing was ok.  We were then asked to leave all our belongings in the plane and leave the aircraft using a...slide! I thought that was fun.  Only when I got off the plane did I realise that we might have crashed! When I saw the plane, the smoke, the ambulances, the fire brigades I was terrorised terrified.  We spent three days in Athens, then we got the car and our luggage from the ship which had already arrived in Pireus and set off for Thessaloniki. We spent two days there and then we crossed the border:  Belgrad, Gratz, Vienna, Munich, Zurich, Bern, Lausanne, Geneva, Saint Tropez, Nice, Monte Carlo, then the Italian Riviera: Pietra Ligure, Santa Margarita. And finally off to Brindisi where we took the ferry to Patras,  Greece.  I only wish I had  some photos to scan for you, but they were all lost during the Turkish Invasion in Cyprus in July 1974.

It took me 7 years to board a plane again. My love of foreign travel far outweighs my fear of flying.  I only hope that one day I'll get over this fear and discover America, Australia, Asia and Africa.  However, my greaterst dream is to cross the Atlantic: Southampton - New York on board The Queen Mary  2